“Militarized urbanism” – a term coined by geographer Stephan Graham. A term that describes the existence in South African cities, and is lived through the ubiquity and perceived necessity of concrete and electrified boundaries, pin codes, guard posts and CCTV.
INFINITY STUDIO, a residency curated by Bubblegum Club and CUSS, will see invited artists from various disciplines explore the meaning and everyday operation of privatization, militarization and escapism in South Africa’s urban landscape. The residency taking place from 29 March to 2 April is the first step for the INFINITY STUDIO program at Kampnagel in Hamburg in the frame of the Live Art Festival #8: SUPERSPACES.
This residency is organized as a curated tour which will see participants travelling to various spaces and events around Johannesburg. It is treated as a form of fieldwork or immersive brainstorming, and real life critical engagement with ideas around enclave communities, boundaries and surveillance in relation to fears about real or imagined dangers in urban spaces.
INFINITY STUDIO is produced by Kampnagel and Bubblegum Club, with the support of TURN – Fund of the Federal Cultural Foundation of Germany as well as the Goethe Institute.
Freedom Park- Here to Make Everything Perfect
Freedom Park is a lifestyle experience unparalleled in the Gauteng city-region. An oasis of peace and community, our estate residents enjoy both easy access to the thriving financial and business center of Johannesburg, and complete security from the chaos of the urban environment.
It is no secret that Johannesburg is dangerous, and that hard-working, decent citizens like yourself are threatened by depraved and squalid crimes. But it’s falsely believed that only the elite can afford total protection. At Freedom Park, we offer the complete security lifestyle experience at a competitive price. You and your family will wake up to the sounds of bird singing and go to bed smiling, safe in the knowledge that any dangers will be anticipated and removed with no mercy. You don’t need to be a multi-millionaire to enjoy multi-million peace of mind.
Our beautiful facilities cater to all tastes, from the rustic to the modern. Housing units are designed to the utmost architectural standards, and you may never want to leave your home again. But we hope you will come and enjoy our family restaurants, affordable mall space and driving range.
Your children will love the dedicated play areas. And for those looking for adult playtime, our resident’s leisure committee organises discreet thrills, which push the boundaries of sanity and morality. You can even try on a new personality for size, with Freedom Park selected as one of the pilot sites for an experimental augmented reality center, offering experiences that are out of this world.
Freedom Park enjoys guaranteed tranquility. Our estate security committee is prepared to get their hands dirty when the police won’t. Onsite staff bring in a wealth of combat experience from their time in Iraq, Afghanistan, Somalia, Libya, Mexico, Nigeria and Syria. The recently opened community detention center is on offer to resolve family disputes. And as an exclusive service, our guards are happy to assist in aggressively resolving any offsite challenges.
Freedom Park offers a complete lifestyle paradise, free of all anxiety. Why should you have to die to go to Heaven?
Recent years have seen a creative boom within Cape Town. There is an energy of innovation afoot and this city’s creatives have the game locked down. Playing their cards with calm calculated steps they are pushing the boundaries and making a change within this creative climate. Identifying four of the individuals who have been integral in driving this new-found energy I spoke to them about their approach to success in an industry were the hustle means your survival. From one of Cape Town’s most intimate photographers to the creator of Booty Bass, the founder of Young & Lazy as well as a ceramic jewellery designer. What sets them apart is their ease within themselves, their passion for the game, their eagerness to mentor younger generations, their hunger for change and their inspiration found in one of the most beautiful coastal cities in the world. My pick showcases creatives laying a fresh foundation for future generations to come.
Jody Brand was born and raised in Cape Town and has a background in History and Media studies. With an intention of becoming a journalist, her initial styling and shoots were merely a fun past time. After assisting Richard de Jager she came to the realization that she wanted more ownership of her images that catapulted into a shift in her focus. Jody became known within creative circles for her photographic depiction of South African youth culture and has worked as a production manager for renowned South African artist, Athi-Patra Ruga.
Since her inception into Cape Town’s creative boom Jody’s lens has matured with her and her initial claim to fame has evolved to address problematic narratives. This year saw Jody’s solo exhibition, ‘YOU CAN’T KEEP A GOOD WOMAN DOWN‘ at the STEVENSON gallery comprising of photographic work, installation and performance art.
This arresting body of work addresses standards of cis-genderedness, whiteness and able-bodiedness. Questioning them and regarding them as despicable in their violence against different ways of identifying and being. One of her works in the exhibition is a digital print on fabric with the following words pigmented on to its surface “Come celebrate with me that everyday something has tried to kill me and has failed”. A powerful statement acting as a synopsis of her message.
Celebrating black beauty and rejecting western beauty standards it speaks of the difficulties that marginalized groups of people face within our socio-political context. Jody’s photographic eye is known for its candidly raw and instinctive nature has shaped itself into a calculated lens unfolding a carefully articulated narrative. Shining light on the truth of a narrative Jody comprehends as it acts as a self portrait of its capturer. Jody’s work is a response to our violent past as well as the malevolent nature of the photographic image itself.
ANG is originally from Johannesburg and has set herself apart as a DJ, radio host, promoter and artist manager. Her initial captivation with sound leaned itself more towards technicality than creativity. Her childlike curiosity pushed an increasing desire to comprehend the finer workings of things. “I would disassemble my boombox at least once a week, inspect all the parts and put it back together.”
Studying as an Audio Engineer she became absorbed by everything relating to sound and practiced as a sound engineer after completing her studies. Her shift from there into venue management branched into a DJ career. As a DJ she naturally progressed into online radio hosting with her own show on Assembly Radio.
“I actively pursue creating the spaces I didn’t have the privilege of enjoying when I first started playing. That has been my approach to my career from the outset and what has attracted other artists to working with me.”
Known for the genre Booty Bass that was born from her desire to give a succinct answer when asked to define her electronic music. She states, “The characteristic that got me the most attention was my defiance of genre constraints.” Booty Bass is a multi-genre, influenced by hip hop and RnB. It can be defined as bass driven dance music. “So whether its 4×4, 2step or club music it all makes your booty pop.”
Recently ANG has been named the head of SHE SAID.SO South Africa, a division of a larger global community of women from different branches within the industry working towards equality and the upliftment of women in music.
Reigning from Woodstock, Anees is the founder of Cape Town’s Young & Lazy. One of South Africa’s most compelling streetwear labels that was established in 2009. Completing his studies at the Cape Town college of fashion design, he knew from as young as the age of 10 that he wanted to be a fashion designer.
“My passion was always the construction of a garment. Coming from my background, how you presented yourself told everyone what your status was. Dressing well and caring about what you look like became everything and I got so deep that I wanted to only have things that no one else had. That’s what pushed me to start making my own clothes.”
The title of his brand was chosen to speak to likeminded individuals and ‘young and lazy’ pinpointed his audience. Anees’ initial designs emulated international trends that he subconsciously produced resulting from an aspiration to obtain similar levels of greatness. Recently the designer has shifted his approach to designing from a feeling or experience.
Looking into his heritage and role as a Cape Malay Muslim in South Africa, this wealth of culture is currently a main source of inspiration. Young & Lazy is growing up with Anees and is becoming the individualization of its creator.
Regarding his contribution to Cape Town’s creative energy as one done in collaboration with Cornerstore, Anees passionately states “I see Cornerstore not only as a shell for the brands but a place where the youth and the future of South African streetwear culture come to congregate, find their squad, find their bae. We encourage other people to build this industry with us and our brands act as platforms for even the kid in high school to collaborate with us.” His message to young creatives is to be unafraid of embracing who they are and to stay real, true and original.
Githan Coopoo is a 23-year-old creative from Cape Town making his mark on the South African fashion sphere with his abstract ceramic jewellery designs.
His infatuation with jewellery design was a late discovery in his life. Githan’s love grew only after his first piercing in 2015. “I just became enamoured with notions of adornment and opulence on the body.” Aware of his family line of Indian jewellers he did not initially consider it a personal interest till later in life.
Githan has worked in ceramic from the outset of his jewellery explorations. “I think of clay as something quite universal and accessible. It is literally earth.I love the idea of a relatively unassuming and inexpensive material being utilized and elevated to that of a precious status. I have invested in the fragility of the material after it has been fired.”
Inspired by found objects such as rubble and cement particles from construction sites he states, “I find a lot of beauty in rejected and dejected articles and objects.” Githan is drawn to working with white in his designs as it emphasizes the ceramic quality of his pieces and expresses that he is often persuaded to work within two tones. This choice makes his pieces chic and bold. The shapes that naturally occur from his process highlight a design that is minimalist and abstract.
Having produced capsules for Rich Mnisi and Gabrielle Kannemeyer for runway shows and editorials, this year saw his collaboration with New York’s Tibi. He created a capsule of earrings for their New York Fashion Week showcase.
Gabrielle Kannemeyer is a Cape Town based art director and stylist who dabbles in every component of the projects she works on. Establishing herself as an unforgettable and irreplaceable brand in the creative industry she has collaborated with Rharha Nembhard, Petite Noir, Lukhanyo Mdingi, Orange Culture, Rich Mnisi, Nicholas Coutts, Wilton Dawson, 2Bop, Bevan Davis and Travys Owen in the past. Coming from a Fine Arts background, Kannemeyer’s work can be distinguished easily by means of her styling that comes to the foreground in images. In her work she celebrates and documents South African landscapes and people in a way that can only be deemed the Kannemeyer way. In my interview with the influential creative she tells me more about her background, method and shares some tips for young creatives
Kannemeyer studied Fine Arts at Michaelis in Cape Town and was introduced to various forms of expression such as painting, print making, sculpture, photography, film making, digital art, animation, typography and drawing. She specialized in photography during her studies but enjoys utilizing a variety of creative expressions to get her concepts across.
She states that working as a creative director in various mediums, she finds herself taking photographs, producing, styling, casting and art directing. The projects that she works on are at times realized with the input of many other creative minds by combining resources and strengths to create work. Kannemeyer feels that it is important to experiment with various forms of expression and avoids sticking to one medium simply because she is good at it or because it comes naturally to her. She continuously challenges herself and builds on her skill set all with the aim to become better at what she does.
“I enjoy how what I do allows me to see a world that is visibly in a state of constant flux. There is no facade of monotony. When things grow stagnant, they shift / I shift as an immediate reaction. I enjoy working with my hands. I enjoy working with people. I enjoy the challenges. I enjoy seeing ideas from my mind’s eye manifest into work. I enjoy helping young creators find their thing, that thing they fucking love doing… that feeling is a revelation for all parties involved. There’s this light that shoots through them and then it’s over…the universe makes moves for them. There are so many things I enjoy about what I do right now.”
Kannemeyer tells me that her creations are informed by what she sees in her surroundings. Perhaps it is a conversation that pulls her mind into a visual plane or perhaps a landscape that stimulates her visual senses as she drives by. She finds enjoyment in driving around the countryside for hours on end, people and landscape watching. Sauntering through Fabric City sometimes ignites her inspiration. Kannemeyer states that her ideas come from anywhere and everywhere.
In her first year at university Kannemeyer came across a book that excited her by artist Billie Zangewa, an artist who mainly works in embroidery and textiles. At the time, Kannemeyer felt lured by the thought of using textiles in her work, a material she was already familiar with as she altered and sold clothing to support her studies and exhibitions. Kannemeyer chose to make use of it in a more welcoming and forgiving environment. “Fabric has the most wonderful ability to disrupt and transport one somewhere else entirely due to how symbolic it is.”
Reflecting on her process, Gabrielle explains that from the instant a personal project, campaign or lookbook is conceptualized, she centres her thinking around how the cast/collaborators, landscapes and styling could be used to amplify the narrative behind the project. She expresses that for her it means bringing styling to the foreground. She achieves these results by simplifying the landscapes that appear behind her subjects.
Kannemeyer is currently running a co-creation studio with Imraan Christian (co-creative director), Raees Saiet (space manager), John Second (studio manager) and Keenan Oliver (assistant producer). The team of creatives developed a collaborative mentorship program operating from 103 Bree Street, Cape Town. Kannemeyer continues to explain that young creators from a variety of backgrounds are invited to enter the space and work closely with them in order to develop their skills and learn how to tell their stories. The co-creation studio has worked with young aspiring creatives including filmmakers, stylists, creative directors and photographers. The mentorships ask of the participants to build their own teams, mood boards and shot lists. Guidance is provided to them through every step of the process. The participants’ work is published onto Area3.co.za on to the CPT ‘17 tab. The images or content is then theirs to keep and the co-creation studio’s to share.
“Our idea for the co-creation studio was prompted by many things: the inaccessibility of Cape Town’s creative industry and the skills and tools needed to pursue creative careers within the industry, the need for fair representation within communities, the demand for a collaborative creative community within the city and the need for catalyzed inclusive growth of a new creative industry. We want to level the playing field as best we can.”
Kannemeyer has stirred change in the industry as a creative director and stylist and hopes to inspire young creatives with her work. Her message for young creatives is the following: “If you have questions, ask them. Everyone’s just a DM away. For real, Carpe DM.”
Kristen-Lee Moolman’s work is based in a utopian Africa; a fictional mythology is shaped. Fantastic characters inhabit her colorful world and their stories are narrated with her lens. In her world segregation and sexuality are explored.
As female South African photographer known for her work that blurs the lines between documentary photography and fashion photography, Kristen-Lee sometimes explores ideas relating to effeminacy. Featured in her constructed utopia are popular faces amongst the South African creative scene such as Joe Turpin, Desire Marea, Nicci Saint Bruce and Fela Gucci to name a few.
Moolman grew up in what she describes as a backwards-Afrikaans town before the end of apartheid in the Karoo region. She feels as though she still has some political confusion as a result of this. In her constructed world that she presents to her viewer in the form of photographs, she does not strive to make political commentary.
In 2016 she worked with London stylist, Ibrahim Kamara during his Johannesburg residency on the exhibition 2026. More recently she was the photographer for HBA’s SS17 lookbook. Moolman’s work has a very defined feeling, and her images cannot be easily mistaken for that of any other photographer.
An ever-present element in her work is sunshine that fades out the backdrops of her portraits and transforms the costumes of her models to surreal outfits. This characteristic is emphasized by her use of bland and unremarkable locations as the setting for her shoots.
Her subjects can be seen portrayed outside of car washes and garages, spread out on satin-sheeted beds or reclining on plastic upholstered sofas. Her backdrops and choice of styling can be said to be campy and kitsch yet it retains refinement in the way that her characters are posed.
Her work, even though refined keeps an element of grime and edge, that is maintained by her choice of subject matter which consists of musicians, dancers, actors and artists.
Moolman who is not only a photographer but also a video artist, created images in collaboration with Kamara for 2026 that is described in an interview with Dazed as confrontational. This exhibition that was turned into a book examines the fragile relationship between the body of the black African male and his sexuality, masculinity and men’s fashion. The exhibition, now in hard copy, showcases to its viewer the manner in which clothes can be utilized to establish identity.
Kristin is a member of the New Africa movement consisting of artists from Africa and the diaspora. The aim of New Africa is to create an innovative aesthetic exploring themes surrounding identity and belonging.
In speaking about her own work Moolman says: “The one thing I will never do is disempower a person in my imagery, I always try to empower people. I will never try to make them look like any stereotype that people may have about us here”.
Her images give its viewer awareness of her world constructed with subjects that are friends or people she met through social media. Obstructing conservative viewpoints and traditional cultural stereotypes held in South Africa, her subjects demonstrate multifaceted sexual and gender identities.
Moolman was listed as part of Dazed 100 photographers to look out for. She breaks the restrictive way that femininity and masculinity are defined with imagery that pushes boundaries. Her non-binary subjects are carefully curated in stale landscapes. Everyday imagery is pushed into the surreal with her use of a sun soaked pastel aesthetic. In her world she contests uniformity by striving to make what is regarded as unusual the norm.
Rhythmic footsteps stride down the runway. Movements maneuvered with choreographed ease, accentuated by the warm rays of spotlights which tumble down from the scaffolded heavens above. A performance of innovation – culminating from each individual stitch on stage. A rupture of social norms.
The captivating Autumn/Winter collection showcased at SA Menswear Week this year was a calendar highlight. The runway was set alight with ingenuity and emboldened designs by the likes of ALC, Jenevieve Lyons, Jahnkoy, Nicholas Coutts and Rich Mnisi. Conceptual fluidity, largely drawing on the wealth of contextual influences and imagining a future of sustainability were some of the resounding themes carried by these brands.
Collections made their debut on Friday the 3rd of February and the shows concluded the following day. Many of these intriguing designers are only emerging on the South African fashion landscape. This includes the work of Cape Town based Jenevieve Lyons. Her collection, DE•FRAG•MENTED [UNDATED] hosted figures clad in disjointed bolstered fabric, muffled under transparent masks of mesh and unseeing eyes glazed behind fabricated spectacles.
Jenevieve’s ‘visual parables’ absorbed the audience as she visually sculpted a concept; “Thus will be the story of the somewhat once told – a revisit to what was sometime known…It may be many things at once or simply one at none. Thus is not to be worn nor adorned; yet to be festooned upon while floating off on a journey of the defragmented stories.”
Appearing in the first show on Saturday was Jahnkoy by Siberian-born Brooklyn-based Maria Jahnkoy. Her collection in collaboration with Puma erupted on a runway paved with traffic signs and red tape. Her work often activates a conversation around the status quo of the fashion industry’s problematic production methods and the loss of artisanal pursuits. Maria’s interpretation of reworked athletic apparel is punctuated by moments of intricate beading, fringe, text and the presence of Puma. The collaboration with the iconic brand is an attempt to, “show how companies can work with local artisans to promote craftsmanship”.
Following the bright prints and textiles of Jahnkoy came the more subtle palette of Rich Mnisi. Deconstructed shirts gathered in the waistline were overlaid with sheer shoulders. Slim frames donned voluminous jackets down the catwalk as soft shapes bleed into structured form. The collection entitled ‘Xingelengele’ means siren or bell. A fitting name for the striking work of the young designer. Manifest in the bold design choices of gender-fluid silhouettes, loose-fitting trousers and colour-blocking ensembles. His looks were adorned with earrings and bags by Githan.
Nicholas Coutts’ knitwear graced the stage next. A woolen aquamarine dream stepped forth into the light. A homage to his influence by the Arts & Crafts movement, the designer specializes in using hand knitted items and handwoven fabrics. The resulting textured assemblages are accented by the intersection of lines; horizontal, vertical and checked pattern. Nicholas has had a fairly fast rise in the industry, graduating four years ago from the Fashion Design at the Academy of Fashion in Cape Town and in the same year winning the ELLE Rising Star Design Award which subsequently catapulted his career.
In keeping with the aesthetic theme of reinvented checkered shirts, was the work of Amanda Cherry’s menswear range, ALC. With twenty years of experience in the industry, Amanda’s designs never cease to surprise and delight. In following an ethic of sustainability and investing locally in production and skills she has created a menswear collection of layered textures and a collage of prints, pockets and textiles. Her new take on classic pieces are interchangeable and dynamic. HEARD MAN draws on the aesthetic of the indigenous people of the Lesotho highlands and also includes elements of Japanese minimalism.
The collections this year provoke the traditional norms of menswear through providing imaginative alternatives to notions of masculine form. They redefine and evoke new articulations of men in this century – founded on principles of deconstructing the very fabric of socially constructed boundaries.
