Tag: representation

  • Kadara Enyeasi – playing with moods, emotions and perspective

    Kadara Enyeasi – playing with moods, emotions and perspective

    With a background in architecture, and a general interest in art and design since his younger years, Kadara Enyeasi moved towards a photography practice that includes portraiture, art and fashion. This self-taught photographer plays with structure and perspective, often making the urban environment a key component in how he positions those who appear in his photographs.

    From discovering photography in junior high when his father gave him a camera, he began by photographing friends and family. He then moved on to experiment with self-portraiture, specifically between 2010 and 2014. This work involves a personal examination of the human form and mind, as well as demonstrates his technical skill and creative execution.

    Reflecting on this Kadara explains in an interview with Nataal that, “At first I was interested in using it to see myself, and how I interacted with the world. I’d adopt various poses that I might subconsciously exhibit in public, whether to appear flamboyant or a recluse. It was about trying to understand myself and why I am how I am. Most of the work from this period, 2010-2014, I called ‘Human Encounters’, and then I broke that down into smaller studies.” Although there may not be a central idea in all of his work, there is a central subject which he explores in different contexts and from different angles – the Black male body. His images channel thoughts and personal interrogations around body politics and representation, while using moods and emotions to soften the poses of the people he photographs.

    Recently Kadara has been doing more social documentary work and looks at how people interact with urban living and country life in various parts of Nigeria, particularly Lagos and Kaduna. He has also started experimenting with collage work, enjoying the process of contrasting images, and combing them to create a completely new one.

    Check out his Instagram to keep up with his work.

  • Dana Scruggs – Photography celebrating the black body and increasing visibility

    Dana Scruggs – Photography celebrating the black body and increasing visibility

    Rawness used as a tool of empowerment. A shutter that constructs a narrative around the individuals captured. A constant return to documenting the movement of the human form and the beauty of the black body. A visual activism. A visual voice.

    Dana Scruggs is a photographer based in Brooklyn, New York. Her string of victories in the photography profession include capturing Tori Bowie (Olympic gold-medalist and the fastest woman in the world) for ESPN’s 10th edition of their Body Issue. With this editorial Dana broke barriers by being the first black female photographer to have contributed to this issue.

    A raw approach becomes a voice for a community and acts to represent and celebrate the black body in all its infinite beauty. The realness in her work showcases individuals in a perspective that is hardly seen but mostly felt. By this I mean that her work translates as an emotion – as an embodiment of the people she photographs.

    In an interview with DAILY RITUAL Dana expresses her view on the industry, “Representation matters not just in front of the camera but behind it as well. Brands, mags, & galleries need to look at how they may be feeding into a culture that’s not inclusive of Black women and not inclusive of women of color. It’s not enough to have Black women in your magazine, ad campaign or grace the walls of your gallery. As artists, our voices have been underrepresented and underemployed for far too long. Make the effort to seek us out… MAKE THE EFFORT TO BE INTERSECTIONAL.”

    To check out more of her work visit her website.

     

  • Internet Friends – A Photographic Series Exploring relationships that manifest online by Katya Abedian

    Internet Friends – A Photographic Series Exploring relationships that manifest online by Katya Abedian

    Internet Friends is a story about transcending social media’s pitfalls while aspiring to form meaningful, sincere friendships.

    The title in itself is such an oxymoron. We often associate the internet with ominous feelings. It’s a place we go to get and give information. To buy and sell products but never ever to find meaningful friendships and relationships. The title paints a warmer picture of a distant tool responsible for globalisation. It implies that the internet connects us in ways we never thought possible. If, we allow it to.”

    – an excerpt from the artist statement written by Candace Redlinghys.

    Internet Friends blossomed from of a state of transition for young photographer and filmmaker Katya Abedian. Living in India for six months resulted in the development of other facets of her photographic eye. During this period, it became apparent to her that she is more interested in capturing “people or life as it moves and breathes” rather than constructed situations – a hankering to document real life.

    The concept for the shoot was one that Katya has been exploring in her head for some time and was concentrated on the idea to capture friends together in a natural setting, as they would spend time together in their daily lives. “I told each of them I was merely there to capture how they presented themselves to me…”.

    This story project was grounded in Katya’s conviction that each of her models should have control of their own representation for the project, and therefore an organic sense of who these models/friends are is projected in a believable and moving manner. Katya viewed this moment of interaction between her friends as one where their bodies functioned as vessels of expression. Emotions that the work evokes is heightened by the friends’ direct control of their representation that included their own styling and choice of makeup.

    The paradox of the virtual space is a factor that can be said to have contributed to this narrative. During her time spent in India, she experienced feelings of both closeness and distance in relation to the loved ones she was communicating with online. The story created collaboratively between herself and her internet friends conveys the open space between feeling close to someone and experiencing feelings of loneliness.

    “We need distance and the pangs of separation to fully appreciate closeness. We also need loneliness to truly understand what it means to be close to someone spiritually versus physically and how the two are related. I feel this through the movement and tone we set through this body of work.”

    Katya explains the beach as a setting for some of the images in the series by stating that the landscape represents “the sense of endlessness that love and separation bring.” This project presented an opportunity to experiment with and sculpt the bodies of her friends to organically mould into one another as is sometimes seen in Renaissance and Classic paintings.

    Recurring motifs in this body of work are that of the vintage car and flowers acting as an enunciation of friends about to embark on a road trip. While creating this body of work she realised that cars and flowers are commonly associated with weddings and funerals, a juxtaposition that sparked introspection.

    “I quite enjoy the visual juxtaposition of the car’s steely-ness and the flowers life-force. I feel that connects to the concept of virtual relationships a lot because there is a fair amount of the conundrum between feeling close to a person and being delighted to speak to them but the frustration of not being able to hold them in your arms.”

    Katya gave her internet friends reign to take ownership of their own representation with this body of work resulting in an artist statement written by one of her friends, self-styled clothes and self-applied makeup – a beautiful collaboration. These aspects of realness make her shoot and the emotions it attempts to convey authentic and heartfelt.

     

    Credits:

    Photography & Creative Direction: Katya Abedian

    Models: Candace Redlinghys, Nathaniel Edwards, TarrynTippens, Stephanie Edwards, Wanda Banda

    Assistance: Jonty Knight

     

  • (BUT) WHAT ARE YOU DOING ABOUT WHITE SUPREMACY? // an exhibition and programme reflecting on racial tension, representation and the Black experience

    (BUT) WHAT ARE YOU DOING ABOUT WHITE SUPREMACY? // an exhibition and programme reflecting on racial tension, representation and the Black experience

    London-based, multidisciplinary art collective sorryyoufeeluncomfortable in collaboration with The Gallow Gate present the exhibition and programme (BUT) WHAT ARE YOU DOING ABOUT WHITE SUPREMACY? as part of the Glasgow International 2018 Supported Programme. For the exhibition collective members Christopher Kirubi, Halima Haruna, Rabz Lansiquot, Mayfly Mutyambizi, Imani Robinson and Jacob V Joyce respond to the programme title. The exhibition will be surrounded by talks, workshops, performances and a film screening, with the intention of inviting audiences to engage with questions related to racial tensions, representation, translation and the experiences of people of colour. I interviewed Imani and Rabz to find out more about sorryyoufeeluncomfortable and the programme they have curated.

    Please share more about the Baldwin’s Nigger Reloaded project and how it led to the formation of sorryyoufeeluncomfortable.

    The Baldwin’s Nigger Reloaded project was started by Barby Asante [London-based artist, curator and educator] and Teresa Cisneros [cultural producer who has worked as arts manager, curator and arts educator] in 2014. They did a call out for young artists and thinkers to respond to Horace Ové’s 1968 film Baldwin’s Nigger; a documentary in which James Baldwin gives a speech and answers a series of questions from a London audience. Over 10 weeks we came together to respond to Horace Ove’s 1968 film Baldwin’s Nigger, focusing on the contemporary relevance of the themes that emerge in the film, and James Baldwin’s thought more generally. We produced artworks, performances and workshops which were showcased in a one-day event at Rivington Place [visual arts centre in London]. It was this project that brought the collective together and kick started our journey. Baldwin’s Nigger Reloaded was developed into a performance created by Barby Asante which has been shown at Nottingham Contemporary, Art Rotterdam, Tate Liverpool & The James Baldwin Conference, Paris, and will also be shown as part of Glasgow International Festival in May.

    Please share more about the name for the collective, and the thinking behind making this the collective name?

    During our residency at Iniva [Institute of International Visual Arts in London] in 2014, we knew we wanted to take the collective beyond the BNReloaded project and our initial reasons for coming together as a group. sorryyoufeeluncomfortable was a brilliant fit for us. It articulated what we couldn’t always vocalise in art spaces, which are so often spaces of privilege, exploitation and palatable politics. As a majority non-white, non-heterosexual group of artists and thinkers we were often made to feel unwelcome in art spaces, with both our politics and our being-in-the-space always seeming to make other people flinch. sorryyoufeeluncomfortable is a flipping of the script. The name operates with multiplicity, it’s shady and sarcastic and on-the-nose and also an act of care and recognition for each other.

    How has the collective evolved over the years?

    The collective began with the BNReloaded project, with 16 members who were between 18 and 25 and artist Barby Asante & curator Teresa Cisneros as our mentors and primary producers. The collective actually works more like a network or community of artists now, who are working around similar themes and having concurrent conversations, so members appear and disappear on a project by project basis. At the moment the collective is being led by 4 people, with Rabz Lansiquot and Imani Robinson producing, programming and curating the work and Jacob V Joyce and Zviki Mutyambizi in supportive roles. We also have a fluid group of contributors and mentors, including Barby and Teresa who have remained close collaborators. The work shifts according to people’s primary interests but the central thread is always radical & liberatory politics and what it means to be living and working in the current climate.

    Where did the title for the programme come from?

    If you’ve ever asked a white person (be they a friend or a stranger) what they are doing about white supremacy, you’ll probably have an anecdote about a slow descent into an array of exaggerated emotions ranging from anger, to tears, to shouting and storming out. If you’ve never asked this question, brace yourself. The title (BUT) WHAT ARE YOU DOING ABOUT WHITE SUPREMACY? acts both as a refusal (you come here expecting me to tell you what to do, but I only show you my art and make you see what you already know) and an acknowledgement that we are forced to share our lives with white supremacy. The question is all of ours… The question looms and it persists… the question is tiresome… the question is discomforting. The 6 Black artists in the show respond in loose or direct ways to the title question, for example, they may invert the question in order to ask: “What is white supremacy doing to you?”, or they may suggest that as Black artists, to make work of any subject matter, or of none at all, is to resist, to survive and to “do something”.

    Share with our readers the visual choices for the title (including the word ‘but’ in brackets and writing the title in capital letters)

    We knew that the audience for GI, and many art festivals, is mainly white and largely made up of arts professionals. As Black artists we wanted to speak to the consumption of the work of artists of colour, which is often at our own expense. The title is as much an address to our audience as it is a provocation for the artists – who cannot help but be faced with the question. Audiences are engaging with our work, which is variably about Black pain and Black death, but what are they doing to address their complicity in that, or to amplify the voices of those already fighting for liberation? What are the art-world audiences doing about sustainable living and working conditions for Black artists? And how are they engaged in material transformation within the institution?

    The capital letters signify the affect and the urgency embedded in the articulation of this question, the heaviness of the question and the way it feels somewhat impenetrable to exist or escape as a Black person in this world. Sometimes a shout reaches further than a whisper…. or sometimes a shout is the only way you will be heard. And the brackets are there as a preconceived comeback to a series of tired, self-preserving responses that do not answer the question.

    Why do you think it is important to combine making and writing for the interrogation of the title?

    The artists in this show Halima Haruna, Jacob V Joyce, Christopher Kirubi, Rabz Lansiquot, Mayfly Mutyambizi and Imani Robinson all have varying practices. sorryyoufeeluncomfortable is a multi-discplinary collective; a community who make things and who write poetry, songs and prose to activate their practice. (BUT) WHAT ARE YOU DOING ABOUT WHITE SUPREMACY? is a personal and a political question and we wanted to be able to respond however we liked, or however we could. Sometimes our responses can be vocalised, or put into words, and other times different modes of expression are better able to articulate an answer.

    Why do you think it is important for the exhibition to be surrounded by conversations, workshops and performances?

    A core part of sorryyoufeeluncomfortable’s work is public programming – creating intentional spaces for radical study and dialogue; it’s very much ingrained in what we do. We wanted the chance to engage with the range of topics and ideas that are present in the work, and to be in dialogue with our audiences who we believe offer as much to us as we can to them.

    It’s important to have multiple entry points to the work; to make the work and the ideas surrounding it as accessible as possible for those who it concerns directly, which is all of us in our distinct ways. We also exist within a wide community of artists, filmmakers and writers who have a lot to say; our programming provides a non-hierarchical space within which to engage with multiple perspectives and draw connections.

    Please share more about your thinking when putting the structure of the programme together?

    We wanted to give our GI audience a taster of each of the kinds of activations we programme. We facilitate workshops & seminars, radical study reading groups, and we also curate film screenings and exhibitions. When we are programming we always aim to create a space for popular education, that is, a democratic space for knowledge sharing in all directions, rather than a one-way street to educate our audiences. In that sense, the structure of the programming also invites audiences to engage in conversation and to participate in the work, rather than solely to consume it.

    Please share more about Black British Shorts and why you felt you wanted to have the screening be a part of the programme?

    Whilst we were ICA Young Associates in 2017, we curated a programme of shorts films by and concerning the lives and experiences of Black British people. It was a really wonderful event for us personally, as the submissions we received reflected what we already knew from experience, but also showed us new and varying perspectives. The films were of such a fantastic standard; we were really proud to be able to share them. The audience at GI is pretty international so we just wanted to share some of the films again and showcase our extended community of talented Black brits.

    Who do you imagine as your audience? And how do you think they will react to or process the exhibition and the programme you have put together?

    We definitely hope that our work appeals to Black & POC folk, particularly queer folk, who are also interested in art and radical politics. Those are the people that we make the work for and put events on for and that tends to be the majority of our audience for our work based in London because there’s a pretty strong Queer POC creative community there. We hope that the kind of work we do resonates with the POC community in Glasgow too.

    However, we are totally aware of the demographics of UK arts & culture audiences. They are overwhelmingly white and middle-class for a number of reasons and this means that a significant amount of events and exhibitions which deal directly with race politics have a markedly white audience-base. It’s always difficult to balance the desire to create work and share that work with audiences, and the oftentimes disheartening feeling you get when that audience doesn’t reflect your community. This also mixes with uncertainty around what exactly those audiences are taking away, is it simply that they attended this ‘cool’ thing about Black art, or do they actually leave with a changed perspective and a plan for active allyship? – Many people will come to the exhibition expecting it to give them answers to the title question. That’s not the purpose of this show, and that’s part of the gag.

    How will the exhibition be constructed and how have you planned to have the various artworks speak to each other?

    The process of constructing the exhibition had several parts to it. It began with commissioning the artists: we put together a concept that was broad enough for multiple interpretations but that had a single thread that would tie everything together. As curators we wanted to work with artists whose work and practice we knew well, as this gives us the kind of trust you need to build an artist led curatorial model where all involved are committed to the process of working collectively. Knowing our artists well, and being in conversation with them already, meant we could leave them to their devices and allow the show to come together organically. The magic really happened during the install. When we entered the space we didn’t know what it was going to look like when we finished, and that allowed us the freedom to make it look however we wanted. It was a collective process of trial and error, and of trusting the process and each other implicitly.

    As a collective what are some of the texts you use as a foundation for how you think about Blackness, the Black existence, white supremacy, representation and translation? Why do these texts appeal to you?

    Because of our origins as a collective James Baldwin is one of our central inspirations because of his employment of loving rage in all of his writings. – There are a lot of readers in our collective and we often read texts together as a collective and as part of public programming. We’ve held events around the work of Sylvia Wynter, Frank B Wilderson III, Fred Moten, Stuart Hall, Audre Lorde, Christina Sharpe, Katherine McKittrick, Black Quantum Futurism, Octavia Butler and CLR James. Our collective conversations around Blackness are always evolving, the more we read and speak to each other, depending on who we are collaborating with, and with each project we work on, wherever we are in the world.

    Is there anything else about the collective, the exhibition or the programme that you would like to mention?

    We don’t get paid enough to do the work we do and nor does any individual or arts collective of colour we know. It’s a real problem in the art world, never mind the rest of the ‘worlds’. Ultimately, we work because we have to and because we love what we do – but this shit is unsustainable.

    (BUT) WHAT ARE YOU DOING ABOUT WHITE SUPREMACY will be on from 19 April – 20 May.

  • The Fantastic Agency – Cape Town’s New Model and Talent Agency is all about self-love, support and heterogeneous casting

    The Fantastic Agency – Cape Town’s New Model and Talent Agency is all about self-love, support and heterogeneous casting

    The Fantastic Agency first opened its doors in January of this year, baring Capetonians originality and a neoteric array of faces on its tantalizing roster. Fantastic is the brainchild of the prominent casting director and stylist, Fani Segerman. Taking on a variety of positions within the advertising and fashion industries over the past ten years, she identified a gap for a new agency. Her focus with this new venture was, and still is, to find and represent the undiscovered talent hidden within the city of Cape Town. Scouting faces from the Instagram accounts and the streets, Fani aspires to develop models and talent into industry jewels. “I focus on discovering and developing fresh talent, and through my talent selection try to make a shift in the industry that is still very traditional or backwards when it comes to representation.”Reflecting on her journey Fani states, “I was a stylist for many years, doing TV ads, stills campaigns and editorials. I would often source the models for these jobs and started to really enjoy that side of it. I joined an agency at 17 and in my twenties I started working there, learning different sides of the business.”

    Fani attributes the trajectory of her career largely to the influence of Candice Hatting who trained her as a casting director. Having worked for both of Candice’s businesses for a number of years, Fani had picked up a great deal of experience that equipped her with the industry know how to start her own agency. “I kind of lost my love for fashion along the way and gained a passion for people, studying psychology in my spare time and falling in love with the world of casting and talent representation.”

    Although Fani is no longer as invested in fashion as she had been before, she is “dipping” her toes back into styling and collaborating with photographers to create images for Fantastic.

    The agency seeks to grow its talent and model representation in order to progress together with the advertising, modelling and fashion industries in South Africa and abroad. The vision for the agency is outlined by its founder on the website as follows: “We represent the full package- the people you stalk online, the muses, the ambassadors, the visionaries who bring life to brands. Fantastic aims to represent a broad and diverse range of talent.”Fani expresses, “In an industry based largely on image and appearance, I am trying to shift the focus to better represent the people who are often overlooked or excluded. I hope to push the importance of self-love, by supporting and building up my models so that this industry is a source of happiness and excitement  for them and not one of anxiety and frustration. I really believe that representation  in the modelling world is so vital and I hope that can translate through the work I am doing at Fantastic.”

    With self-love, support and heterogeneous casting as the pillars of the agency, Fantastic is well on its way to breaking away from established industry norms, and achieving its objective to make the space one of enrichment and excitement.

    Credits:

    Photography: Hana Sho
    Styling: Fani Segerman
                 Nathaniel Edwards
                 Farai Engelbrecht

     

  • Gay and Lesbian Memory in Action // generative archiving and LGBTIQ activism

    Gay and Lesbian Memory in Action (GALA), situated at Wits University, is a centre for lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, intersex and questioning/queer (LGBTIQ) culture and education in southern Africa. “Our mission is to act as a catalyst for the production, preservation and dissemination of knowledge on the history, culture and contemporary experiences of LGBTIQ people,” states Keval Harie, GALA’s director. The reason for the inception of GALA in1997 stems from their original name, ‘Gay and Lesbian Archives’. The purpose of GALA was to address the erasure of the stories and experiences of LGBTIQ people from official archives and other spaces. Since then the scope of their work has expanded to include a multitude of activities that focus on dialogue around sexuality and gender identity with the purpose of educating the public, building a community among LGBTIQ people, and to inspire action.

    Image from ‘Out the Box: A Glimpse into 20 Years of Queer Archiving’

    “In 2007 we changed our name to Gay and Lesbian Memory in Action (while retaining the acronym GALA) to better reflect this development. However, the archival programme remains the heart of GALA.”

    As a working archive that reclaims a place in the regional history and culture for LGBTIQ people, GALA does not collate information and host events in an attempt to state that LGBTIQ people are homogenous. Instead their direction is towards heterogeneous experiences but within shared structural, institutionalised marginalisation which is filtered into everyday discrimination.

    “Today, we are the custodian of a large number of individual and organisational archival collections that document the history, culture and contemporary experiences of LGBTIQ people in Africa. Our archives and accompanying resources are freely available via our website and to visitors to our office.”

    Youth forum member Wenzile photographed by Genevieve Louw

    “Homosexuality is un-African”. This is one of the many statements that GALA is hoping to wipe away. “We aim to re-insert queer voices into Africa’s history.  During our two decades of working we have played a unique role – affirming LGBTIQ communities, shaping public opinion and enhancing perceptions of queer African identities, in South Africa and across the southern African region,” Keval explains. The information they store and preserve have been used to create other ways of sharing knowledge, including plays, and theses. This points to the fact that their archive is generative.

    Enforcing self- and collective empowerment, over the past 10 years GALA has created youth programmes, including a weekly Youth Forum and monthly Queer Realness publications. These offer physical and political safe zones of representation and forms of support for young queer-identifying people.

    GALA 20 poster designed by Cameron Anzio Jacobs

    In addition to this GALA curates an exhibition every two years. By translating their messages into a visual language, they are able to engage with another audience and present another avenue for dialogue through a different medium. “Our latest exhibition (2017), held at the Johannesburg Holocaust & Genocide Centre, was a retrospective exhibition focused on the archive collections, and formed part of our 20th anniversary celebrations.  It was called ‘Out the Box: A Glimpse into 20 Years of Queer Archiving.”

    At the moment GALA is working on an education programme that will be facilitated by various university spaces. GALA will also curate exhibitions titled “Out the Box: 20 years of Queer Archiving” and “Kewpie” this year along with launching their GALA 20 book that commemorates 20 years of GALA’s work since 1997. Keep an eye on their Facebook page for more details.

    Photography by Keval Harie
    Photography by Keval Harie
  • Gavin Krastin – The embodiment of unveiling

    Gavin Krastin’s name has been popping up in art circles for some time now, and is often accompanied by shocking titles, graphic images, or sensational writing in an attempt to translate a performance into a written text. However, through conversation with the artist about his practice, it quickly became apparent that a critical and considered project was underway, and that elements of horror and shock were used as formal conceptual devices in service of this project.

    If being an artist wasn’t risking enough, venturing into performance certainly is. Despite bemoaning and often calling out the existing structures for not providing enough support for performance artists; not taking enough risks “due to the dreaded F word: funding,” Krastin has not let this hold him back. He challenges not only artists, but “curators, funders, festivals and programmers too, who too often expect artists to take risks but take little risk themselves, or in some instances turn their back on you when your risk doesn’t quite turn out as planned (no doubt reducing one’s art to a purely monetary value and an exercise in branding).” His work is bold, and his practice is creative, finding ways to sustain himself and his projects despite the obstacles.

    ‘Omnomnom’ performance photographed by Sarah Schafer

    He has been teaching and working at universities (UCT and Rhodes) for the past 6 years as a para-academic, or as he referred to himself, tongue-in-cheek, as “an academic wet nurse.” He has been teaching artists in the theatre-making, contemporary performance and movement studies arenas. Facing the struggles of working in an institution head-on, Krastin’s pedagogical approach, much like in his art practice, is to “stir curiosity and entice a playing field of questioning,” with the risks of such “stirrings” being vital to embarking on “radical embodied research.” Teaching is not simply a side-job, but rather Krastin considers the aspects that comprise his practice as “largely inseparable; as if his arts practice, teaching, research, facilitation and curation create an asymmetrical web of sticky intersecting trajectories, and thus the critiques of whiteness at university level continue to influence him and his socially-engaged work.”

    While directing is something in his repertoire, when it comes to his own performances Krastin uses his own body, as he cannot “expect someone else to endure” what he imagines. He uses his body as a means to “occupy, subvert and challenge notions of presentation and representation (which almost act as an incubator of historical trauma).” The performances are grotesque because the body is grotesque and shocking, but has been hidden behind “constructed compartments, boarders and adornments such as culture, religion, politics, language, names and epistemologies in order to contain, control, conceal and rationalise our human messiness.” He views his artistic project as one that “unveils such structures, embodying a body for what it is – a network of organs in extremity and oppression, but desiring production.” This minor revolt against the status quo is one that arises from a place of surprising vulnerability, humility and courage.

    ‘Pig Headed’ performance photographed by Sarah Schafer

    Krastin is ambitious and involved in many projects: He is assisting in an upcoming choreographic work authored by Alan Parker and Gerard Bester with the Dance Umbrella in March. He is also curating a group show of performance art in Cape Town, called ‘Arcade’, by young and/or recent Capetonian graduates – a venture which is sponsored by the National Arts Council and the Theatre Arts Admin Collective, resulting in paid artists – “because one can’t pay the rent with experience alone.” Currently Krastin even has some “performance detritus, or relics and used paraphernalia,” from his performance Pig Headed on display as part of a group exhibition called Provenance: A Performance Art Object Exhibition at Defibrillator Gallery in Chicago. A feature at the National Arts Festival in Grahamstown, festivals and gallery shows around the country and a creative research residency in Switzerland – it’ll be hard to miss this enigmatic artist in 2018.

    ‘Epoxy’ performance photographed by Owen Murray
  • Gypsy Sport: A rising leader of consciousness in fashion

    Having showcased in major fashion capitals such as New York, Paris and Milan, Gypsy Sport has proven to be insurgent in disrupting the elite fashion scene with its honest and progressive social commentary. The New York-based urban street wear label founded in 2012 by Rio Uribe is inspired by the ideals of inclusivity, true diversity and community.

    It Is almost impossible to divorce the socio-political statements that Gypsy Sport makes from its garments. The authentic and soulful label offers gender-fluid, non-binary clothing that incorporates highly creative silhouettes as well as eclectic textiles and prints. Gypsy Sport takes a pan-ethnic approach to fashion in which their clothing is derived from a mash up of various cultural influences whilst managing to absolve themselves from cultural appropriation.

    Another refreshing aspect from the label is the demographic of models that are featured in their runway shows and global campaigns. With the emergence of Gypsy Sport, Uribe began scouting for models within his community and group of friends which resulted in vibrant shows and photoshoots. The label which also champions for body positivity has since become a beacon of representation for marginalized groups such as black folk, brown folk, trans folk, queer folk and Muslim folk.

    The multidimensional and layered nature of the label has equipped it with the ability to manoeuvre itself through different creative and political spaces. Their musical ventures include a mixtape in collaboration with New York-based DJ Anthony Dicap which was released for the label’s Fall 2017 collection. Gypsy Sport was also thoroughly involved in 2017’s LGBTQ celebrations by volunteering at LGBTQ youth centres across four cities, namely Los Angeles, New York, Portland and San Francisco. The Pride celebrations comprised of a trans march advocating for transgender and non-binary rights, queer parties, clothing drives and pop-up shops in which all proceeds were donated towards youth community development.

    Gypsy Sport recognizes the great significance in positively impacting the community and has a deep-rooted understanding that it can be achieved through multiple channels. Their passion for the community is evident in their casting calls with the most recent one being open to whole families and seeking for artists, dancers, singers, activists, athletes and geeks to model the label’s clothing at New York Fashion Week.

    It’s quite fitting that Gypsy Sport identifies as rebels because that is exactly what they are – they defy the status quo, triumphantly dismantle binaries, challenge various fronts of injustices and essentially disrupt stagnant spaces. They manage to do all of that whilst setting the bar high with their fashion forward brand. 2018 will be an exciting year to see how this dynamic and intentional label will continue to stretch limitations in the fashion industry to expand Uribe’s vision in creating a worldwide fashion tribe.

  • A reflection on representation: musings on black girl magic

    In the late 90s, Arts & Culture was phased in as a subject in South African primary schools. My teacher was Afrikaans, had a 9 carat gold nail attached by a gossamer chain to a ring resting on her pinky finger and taught me to make biltong and use acrylic paints. Her central thesis was that society operates as a pendulum, swinging from extremes.

    Before anything further is said, I must acknowledge the delight that comes with no longer being the token POC, lone nerd, passionate fangirl, avid consumer etc. etc. ad infintum.

    REPRESENTATION MATTERS.

    Not just of the fairer sex, from The Dark Continent, or of a queer dispensation.

    The ways of being in this world are infinite.

    All must be flexed.

    While the spotlight shines on some of them from time to time, refracting into their cultures and sub-cultures, crews and niches, cultural capital is a roaring economy. We know which styles get the most shine and trendy appropriation is usually a dead giveaway of the marketability of oppressive underrepresentation.

    On the day that this was shot, I was chuckling with Dope Saint Jude and Kyla Phil about how cute it was that the photographers had expressed how relevant black girl magic is right now.

    Relevant: closely connected or appropriate to the matter in hand.

    Trendy: characteristic of, influenced by, or representing a current popular style.

    There is a big difference.

    Nonetheless, the matters at hand for the women in this feature may very well be easily aligned with the styles of Russian ravers, Senegalese surfers, WASPs, or Taiwanese gender benders. And then again, maybe not.

    For instance, Marge Linderoth is a sweetheart angelface hairstylist; Purity is the lead singer of indie-dream-wave/horror-funk band, The Pranks. Their lived experiences might be chalk and cheese, but maybe they’ve worked, lived, played together.

    Kalo Canterbury aka k.dollahz aka international playboy/daddy/prettyboy, and Jana Babez Terblanche (Britney Spears meets Athi-Patra Ruga) are both crushing gender binaries through subverting heteronormative ideals. One does it via performance art; the other as part of the streetwear sex gods fashioning an anomalous support for local products out of discontent with the disconnect between the mainstream ‘fashion industry’ and on the ground street style in Cape Town.

    And while actress and filmmaker Kyla Phil deposes of discourse despots on the daily in her hard-earned capacity as a flourishing (read: woke) thought-leader, LadySkollie, the fine (AF) artist pioneers paths in both the creative industry and in understanding of contemporary sexual experiences.

    Some time back I wrote about rapper Dope Saint Jude’s visceral style of parading and parodying positions of power – all of these individuals are doing that in their respective life-worlds, and it has got everything and nothing to do with being African women.

    This gathering of individuals is in no way a statistically accurate representative of women in Africa, but it is an interesting sample, intoxicating in its authenticity. Its like a flip on The Spice Girls, but with more people because duh, T.I.A.

    So it goes without saying, that defying prescribed societal roles in a country like South Africa – one of the most diverse in the world, with four broad racial groupings, 11 official languages, countless cultural identities and ethnic bonds, a huge gap between rich and poor and growing communities of migrants and immigrants – is somewhat superfluous.

    The experience of being an African woman is ineffable, intersectional, liminal, and oh so lit.