Tag: pride

  • African Hair: Sometimes a Statement, Other Times a Celebration of Identity

    You probably recall the tension within schools in 2016, when a learner at Pretoria Girls High School was called out for her Afro hairstyle, and its supposed contravention of the school’s code of conduct. From what I can remember, it became a huge issue in schools that led to an uproar in student-organised protests. Not only did it raise concerns about the inclusivity of schools’ code of conduct, it also aided greater conversations about the repercussions of such regulation on identity. 

    Nowadays, African hair has become a wellspring of inspiration, igniting various forms of artistic expression across disciplines. An example of this is a series of artwork created by Visual Artist and Hair Stylist  Lebohang Motaung who creates informed conversations about the politics of Black women’s hair through her depictions of hairstyles, colours and varied use of art mediums. Motaung’s exposure to established artist mentorship, both locally and abroad, has played a pivotal role in shaping her artistic style.

    Her series of artwork titled ‘Hairoines’ is ultimately a celebration of identity. She aims to inspire women to embrace their true selves, urging them to remain unchanged and unshaken by societal judgments regarding their choices in hairstyling. As a Black woman, Lebohang draws from her personal experiences, navigating the complex landscape of Black hair politics.

    Something I noticed for the first time in the artwork is the use of literal synthetic hair as a medium. I think Moatung’s employment of synthetic hair as a medium symbolises the versatility and resilience of women, demonstrating that identity is not fixed but can be shaped and reshaped in dynamic ways- each creation tells a story of strength, individuality, and the beauty that arises from embracing one’s roots. It is not only aesthetically appealing but also relevant. 

    Whether it is in a local or international context, I love that the media nowadays reflects a deeper understanding of the traditions, bonds, conversations, and pressures that women, especially those of African descent, grapple with in relation to their hair.

    African Hair
    Lebohang Motaung, Hairoines , 2023, Acrylic paint, beads and synthetic air on canvas. 150 x 110cm, Lizamore & Associates

    For example, Beyonce’s different hair looks from the music videos of her sixth studio album, Lemonade truly underpins the versatility that is African hair. If you have watched the music video for “Sorry”, you’ll notice three different hairstyles, each epitomising African culture in some way. One particular hairstyle, inspired by traditional styles of the Congo Mangbetu women, was Beyonce’s braids shaped into Nefertiti’s crown. 

    In the music video of “Don’t Hurt Yourself” Beyonce shows out in tight cornrows, adorned with edges, which also happens to be the album cover. There were plenty of lyrical moments within the album that celebrated the identity and power of African hair, and its representation of culture. 

    And then, of course, there’s the 12th song on the album: “Formation”. Natural black hairstyles, afros, “nappy hair”, perms and cornrows are all depicted in the video, even the chores of the song pay homage to baby hair and afros. Such a portrayal of Black culture cannot be taken as anything less than a message of pride.

    In an article with Vogue, Anok Yai mentions that she would prefer to wear her hair in cornrows or as an Afro as opposed to straightening her natural hair due to the damage it caused. Seems like it did not affect her career in any way, as she closed Mugler’s SS24 runway show this year, in her natural hair no less. 

    From Motaung’s artwork to Beyonce’s album, each contributes to the conversation about the changing technologies of identity-making in our contemporary society. The logic of these artists’ choices in mediums is not only informed by the subject matter of their art but also reinforces the idea of shared experience- and I think African hair is a shared experience. 

    African Hair
    Image via Twitter
    African Hair
    Image via Pinterest
  • [CROP] // An Exploration of Cross Continental Creative Resistance

    [CROP] // An Exploration of Cross Continental Creative Resistance

    Scattered. Pin-points positioned. X-marks-the-spot on the site of intervention. Latitudinal lines of social disparity. Captured and activated between continental shifts in a spaciotemporal moment of defiance.     

    [CROP] is an acronym for Creative Resistance & Open Processes. Established with an ideology centred around inclusivity and accessibility, the collective aims to make art free. The participating agents come from “diverse and multi-disciplinary backgrounds, we use street art to question societal issues, while paying homage to some of society’s most marginalized and often unseen individuals.” [CROP] operates at the powerful intersection between art and activism. CHUZKOS exists as a parallel collective and South American counterpart. Founded by Idelette Aucamp and Boris Mercado the collectives have been able to explore continental conversations between Columbia, Ecuador, South Africa, New Zealand as well as an upcoming activation in Peru. Through these interventions art is utilized as a vehicle for positive change in opposition to issues plaguing society.

    The inaugural [CROP] project launched in Johannesburg last year. Sites of activation were peppered throughout the city and included Melville, Braamfontein, Maboneng, Parkhurst, Parkwood, Jeppestown and other parts of the CBD. “We initiated the project by hosting two collaborative workshops, inviting local photographers and creatives to be part of a core team that would co-create a concept for a public intervention on the streets of JHB, South Africa. During these creative labs, each member presented their portfolios, shared ideas and discussed issues related to the power of photography, design and collective efforts.” After selecting, editing and printing the images they were wheat-pasted at selected points across the cityscape.

    “Creative expression is a powerful tool of resistance that cultivates a sense of unity, pride and empowerment. By connecting like-minded artists, creatives, and organisations for the artworks, we also encourage those involved to continue conversations and relationship-building in their communities, and to independently explore ongoing project potential.”

    The latest iteration of [CROP]’s South African projects was Sililizwe Lase Khayamandi (We are the voices of Kayamandi) in July. This manifestation integrated a poetic element and was focused on the importance of collaboration within communities. It blended together poetry, photography, design, and urban art co-created by CHUZKOS and INZYNC Poetry and took the form of a poetry workshop & photo zine. The township adjacent to Stellenbosch translates to ‘sweet home’ in the Xhosa language. The open call invited photographers to submit images that depicted “social issues, promoted the critical visual exploration of the social environment, and captured our united resistance by focusing on local stories, landscapes, faces and emotions.”

    The final installations included poems from local community members – creating conversation between image and text. “South Africa’s past has been devastating and profound, with many inequalities created and maintained by apartheid, still evident today… Past neglect, lack of investment, poor infrastructure, overpopulation, violence, poverty and isolation from urban centres are all challenges people living in townships face today. Art however, is a powerful tool of resistance, one that inspires hope, encourages unity and empowers people to fight for change.”

    In Cali, Colombia during December 2016 CHUZKOS collaborated with Colectivo Telefono Roto (Cali) & Casa Fractal to create Cápsulas de Realidad (Reality Capsules). “The residency aimed to unearth realities of the housing crisis, we wanted to raise awareness about the social and environmental implications related to lack of housing, poor infrastructure, pollution in rural areas, public spaces being occupied by the homeless, relocation, and the fragmentation of society.” Images of these social realities were placed in middle class, trendy suburbs as a way to disrupt bourgeoisie denial. “The project was an act of independent cultural activism, highlighting the link between visual anthropology and urban intervention… We also interviewed Rafael Vergara Navarro, a well-known environmentalist and activist form Cartagena, who shared his opinion on the social and environmental impact the housing problem has on societies.”

    The upcoming [CROP] Lima Intervention will take place on the 22nd of September in Peru. This iteration will celebrate local rural culture in Pamplona Alta on the periphery of the city – a community forgotten and ignored. “The core team is made up of 12 creatives, including photographers, designers, muralists, graffiti artists, collage artists, and musicians. There are two workshops being hosted where artists will collaborate using photography, graffiti, collage and embroidery on photos to create a single large piece of artwork to be used in an urban intervention. Throughout the process our musicians set the tone by playing music and inviting audiences to participate.” At the heart of all [CROP] projects is the desire to create activations that transform and engage spaces.

     

    Supporters and connected organisations: Street capture, Pleekō,

    Core [CROP] Kayamandi team: Adrian van Wyk (InZync), Boris Mercado(CROP & CHUZKOS), Cale Waddacor (Dead Town), Gulshan Khan (CROP: Photographer), Idelette Aucamp (CROP & CHUZKOS), Lily Branon (Legacy Centre), Pieter Odendaal (InZync), Ryan Jarrett (CROP: Video), Salym Fayad (CROP: Photographer)

    Photographers: Barry Christianson (@thesestreetsza), Matteo Placucci (@matteo_placucci), Kgomotso Kgopa (@seedaforika), Thina Olona Zibi (@thinazibi)

    [CROP] Kayamandi Poets: Nthateng Machaea, Mxolisi Arthur Mbeleko, Sam Maricoh, Vusumzi Mokoena, Anele Sihlali

  • Sula Africa: The fostering of a fashion community

    Tshepo Pitso, aka Don Dada, is part of a street culture that has evolved into a movement and a fashion community. Izikhothane are the kings and queens of South African brands, bright colours and flamboyant fashion combinations. Don Dada informs us that they have attempted to erase the fragmentation and rivalry between izikhotane crews by creating one – Material Culture. He expressed that this has been significant because it has burgeoned a collective sense of pride and connection between izikhozane from different parts of the country.

    Plugging into the politics of representation, Don Dada expressed that sharing the videos he created on YouTube was crucial as it ensured that izikhozane culture had a place on the internet. This allowed insider documentation of the people and style that is recognizably izikhozane. “We can’t have lost memories,” Don Dada states. This aids in the preservation of izikhozane identity, which Don Dada states is an important motivator for continuing to find ways to share and connect izikhozane from across the country. This self-made exposure has also attracted local and international media. Don Dada sees this as a way to inform people of the culture’s core and to avoid misunderstandings about what they stand for. It also allows for people to recognize that there is a uniquely South African fashion style, that is growing through self-referencing.

    The event, Sula Africa, is a coming together of izikhozane. However Don Dada explains that all people interested in fashion are invited. “We are inspired by fashion…We meet as Africans in fashion. That’s why we say Sula Africa”

    In closing, Don Dada reflects on his aims as a participant,  promoter and preserver of the subculture. “We don’t want to change the style. We are trying to keep it the way it was. We want to keep the identity the same. I don’t want someone who was a skhothane a long time ago, when he sees the current skhothane, and say ‘No this is not skhothane’. He must see that we are still izikhothane. We are still brave and we are not scared.”

    Credits:

    Featuring – Don Dada

    Camera – Jamal Nxedlana 

    Motion Design – Lex Trickett 

    Sound – Griffit Vigo

    Editing – Themba Konela

  • Gypsy Sport: A rising leader of consciousness in fashion

    Having showcased in major fashion capitals such as New York, Paris and Milan, Gypsy Sport has proven to be insurgent in disrupting the elite fashion scene with its honest and progressive social commentary. The New York-based urban street wear label founded in 2012 by Rio Uribe is inspired by the ideals of inclusivity, true diversity and community.

    It Is almost impossible to divorce the socio-political statements that Gypsy Sport makes from its garments. The authentic and soulful label offers gender-fluid, non-binary clothing that incorporates highly creative silhouettes as well as eclectic textiles and prints. Gypsy Sport takes a pan-ethnic approach to fashion in which their clothing is derived from a mash up of various cultural influences whilst managing to absolve themselves from cultural appropriation.

    Another refreshing aspect from the label is the demographic of models that are featured in their runway shows and global campaigns. With the emergence of Gypsy Sport, Uribe began scouting for models within his community and group of friends which resulted in vibrant shows and photoshoots. The label which also champions for body positivity has since become a beacon of representation for marginalized groups such as black folk, brown folk, trans folk, queer folk and Muslim folk.

    The multidimensional and layered nature of the label has equipped it with the ability to manoeuvre itself through different creative and political spaces. Their musical ventures include a mixtape in collaboration with New York-based DJ Anthony Dicap which was released for the label’s Fall 2017 collection. Gypsy Sport was also thoroughly involved in 2017’s LGBTQ celebrations by volunteering at LGBTQ youth centres across four cities, namely Los Angeles, New York, Portland and San Francisco. The Pride celebrations comprised of a trans march advocating for transgender and non-binary rights, queer parties, clothing drives and pop-up shops in which all proceeds were donated towards youth community development.

    Gypsy Sport recognizes the great significance in positively impacting the community and has a deep-rooted understanding that it can be achieved through multiple channels. Their passion for the community is evident in their casting calls with the most recent one being open to whole families and seeking for artists, dancers, singers, activists, athletes and geeks to model the label’s clothing at New York Fashion Week.

    It’s quite fitting that Gypsy Sport identifies as rebels because that is exactly what they are – they defy the status quo, triumphantly dismantle binaries, challenge various fronts of injustices and essentially disrupt stagnant spaces. They manage to do all of that whilst setting the bar high with their fashion forward brand. 2018 will be an exciting year to see how this dynamic and intentional label will continue to stretch limitations in the fashion industry to expand Uribe’s vision in creating a worldwide fashion tribe.

  • Multiplicity on the Dancefloor: nightclubs for the non-binary

    One of the defining features of nightclubs is that they are loud and dark: there’s little allowance for speaking. It’s a space where our bodies are especially loaded, in part because they are the primary means by which we signal to, and experience, one another. We dance, we push, we touch, we avoid, we shoot glances across the room. The resulting intimacy is charged with volatility — sometimes experienced as warm and exciting, but always on the cusp of something suffocating or even violent.

    Being Pride Week, I was prompted to reflect on some of the ways in which Johannesburg’s night spaces are experienced by queer and/or non-binary bodies. How does cis-hetero-normativity contribute to the contouring of the nocturnal city? To what extent are nightspots designated as ‘gay’ experienced as ‘safe’ by their intended audiences? And how do queer bodies negotiate the layered possibilities and vulnerabilities of the night-time?

    One of the very first places I went out after moving to Johannesburg was Liquid Blue, a cocktail lounge in Melville. It remains unclear to me whether Liquid Blue was originally marketed as a gay bar, or whether it has simply been claimed by a queer audience. Either way, the lounge is now a widely celebrated gay night-spot, with a playlist that spans house, kwaito, hip-hop, RnB and pop — designed to keep the dancefloor jumping. My early experience at Liquid Blue made me stunningly optimistic about Johannesburg’s night scene and to this day, it remains the most inclusive club I have visited in the city. No entrance fee, with an audience that is acutely representative of the South African demographic: predominantly black, with white, coloured and Indian partygoers as visible minorities. The dancefloor is an exchange of intimacies that disregards race and gender, and although the crowd is mostly men, young women of any sexuality can feel a precious sense of safety.

    Indeed, in my conversations with Johannesburg’s non-binary partygoers, one of the primary debates seemed to be about the place of cis-hetero bodies in queer night-spaces. A few months ago, while chatting to Desire Marea (of FAKA) about partying as a queer, black man, he told me that night-spaces specifically designed for queer audiences are increasingly rare. “Those spaces hardly exist now”, he said. “It’s literally a space that was once a straight club, and now it’s a gay club, and there are still some straight people.” In these spaces that were not designed for queer bodies but in which queer bodies are present, he argues that there is “still that energy and sense of being unwelcome”.   It’s “not as safe as a space that is designated especially for you. And we need those spaces. We can’t just integrate. We want to explore ourselves”.

    When Desire first moved to Johannesburg from KZN, he began renting an apartment in a lesser-known part of inner-city Jo’burg: run-down buildings, occupied predominantly by young men, many of whom had also migrated from KZN. Early on, he and Fela Gucci (of FAKA) began partying at the neighbourhood tavern. Having spent a lot of time in rural taverns, Desire described this to me as one way of connecting to a particular part of his “black experience”.  He and Thato had been in awe of how homo-erotic the tavern was. Young men, many of whom would not have identified as queer outside of that space, were the sole clientele. “They were dancing in ways that would not have been acceptable even at Buffalo Bills”, Desire reflected. It was an intoxicating place, but its permissiveness was also fragile. After one of their friends was assaulted there, they did not go back.

    Desire now speaks of his successes and struggles in claiming Braamfontein, as a space in which he, and other queer bodies, can feel welcome. There remains, he tells me, a class gulf between nightspots in Braamfontein and the tavern where he once partied, such that those in the tavern do not have access to places like Great Dane or Kitcheners. To some extent, Braamfontein has become a space in which the ‘alternative body’ is welcomed and celebrated. But Desire argues that there is often only a particular kind of ‘cool’, and a particular kind of ‘gay’ that is desired. He told me a story about a time he wore a dress on a night out and was waiting in the queue for the entrance. Although no one else in the line had been asked for an identity document, he was pressed by the bouncer and subsequently turned away. Those queues, he told me, were so often utterly “dehumanising”.

    Part of what Desire is pointing to, in his story about the dress, are particularities about how femme bodies are received in night spaces. He describes this as the “hetero-normativity of gayness” in which “femme bodies are not allowed to express their sexuality in the same way as other gay male bodies”. Of course, club culture that is anti-femme also affects how women experience night-spaces. To this end, the monthly Pussy Party at Kitcheners has sought to create a pro-femme platform that celebrates femme artists and audiences, featuring acts like FAKA, Angel Ho and Dope St Jude, while also pushing back on particular forms of cis-het machismo.

    These are instances in which traditionally hetero spaces have opened themselves up to more fluidity. But to what extent are designated ‘queer’ spaces experienced as ‘safe’ by queer bodies? Unsurprisingly, this answer is also not always clear. Many have told me that while these spaces might allow them to feel comfortable in their sexuality, gay clubs that are almost exclusively white provoke other discomforts and other forms of violence. Some described feeling “unacknowledged” which was “disappointing” and “painful”.  Reflecting on a night out at a gay night-spot in Illovo, a friend said: “obviously I feel safe there as a queer white man. But it made me feel more uncomfortable than when I was in Kitcheners making out with an ostensibly straight boy because it felt like a church of whiteness”.  Despite describing Illovo as “super white”, those I spoke to also recognised it as the heart of the post-Pride party.

    And of course, the city’s designated ‘gay clubs’ are not only racialised, but also classed. In Maboneng, a new nightclub, Industry, has been opened with the aim of catering to “upwardly mobile gay men and women”. It is a very chic spot, playing cutting edge electronic music, with patrons who look as though they just stepped out the pages of a high fashion magazine. It’s in image that is at-once immensely appealing to some, and deeply alienating to others. And indeed, this is likely to be true of many night-spots in the city.

    Much of the discourse on non-binary nightlife in Johannesburg is about the experiences of queer men, with very little attention given to queer women.  In reflecting on her experiences in the nocturnal city, a friend of mine said this: “one of my major concerns when visiting night spots is about the level of unwanted attention and uncalled for touching. For me, not all queer safe spaces feel safe, in the same way that not all heterosexual spaces do. One of my most unpleasant memories at a particular gay bar was being accosted by the bouncers not only outside, but also while waiting for drinks. So one person’s safe space is not necessarily another’s no matter how queer safe they claim to be.” Perhaps unexpectedly, she said that one of her favourite spaces to go at night was the strip club, where the music was good, men did not bother you, and all the attention was on the working women.

    Over the past few days that I’ve spent talking and reflecting about nightlife outside the bounds of cis-heteronormativity, the term ‘non-binary’ has exploded in its meaning. Not only do we need to think about how our night-spaces might welcome or militate against gender non-binary audiences. But we might also think about the ways in which our identities are always more than one thing at once. We might be both woman and queer and black; straight, white and disabled; rural and gay man; hip-hop head and crowd-phobic; and so the list goes on. All of these identities factor in the ways that we experience space. The question of queer-safe nightclubs seems then to point to this wider question: how might we craft night spaces that take our multiplicity as their basis?

    “There’s just a lot more in Jo’burg”, Desire reflects. “There’s a lot more people dealing with energies, dealing with trauma. There’s a lot more conflict. It’s just a thing about the city. The conflict is a thing that’s in the air. But also a unity that’s very hard to reach. You have to delve to the deepest darkest places to try and find shared experience. Nightlife for us is not just going out. Nightlife is also sharing a bed with someone. Essentially nightlife is living the way you want to exist and it’s transcending the experience you have during the day. It’s like you’re emancipating yourself. It’s resistance”.