Tag: Jewellery design

  • Jungli // A Brand Subverting Cultural Appropriation

    Jungli // A Brand Subverting Cultural Appropriation

    Officially launching on Instagram in September, Jungli is run by Leila Khan and La’eeqa Mosamin in Cape Town. With their offering of hand-made products that span from tassel earrings to coin chockers, t-shirts and bright yellow sweat shirts bearing slogans such as ‘NO TO APARTHEID’, this brand has a powerful message.

    The launch of Jungli was a process that required almost a year of planning and design experimentation. For the duo, their label began as a side hustle to earn money. They had witnessed multiple white owned businesses profiting off culturally appropriated jewellery and t-shirts printed with white feminist slogans as well as slogans appropriated from black women. “We thought we might as well be the ones to make money off of designs and fabrics from our own cultures and give people the option to buy less problematic t-shirts with strong political statements.” Before joining forces the duo were both designing and creating jewellery in their private capacities as hobbyists.

    Currently studying law, they have expanded their craft with their Jungli collaboration. Leila expresses her creativity in a variety of practices stretching from drawing, painting and printmaking. Skills that she has built on since school and later at the Peter Clarke Art Centre. She still continues to build on her practice by means of self-teaching.

    The word Jungli is an Urdu/Hindi word containing multiple meanings. The creators of Jungli tell me, “We got the idea from La’eeqa’s grandmother, who used to tease her as a child by calling her ‘jungli’, meaning ‘wild’. This word was also used in colonial rhetoric to refer to people from the subcontinent as ‘barbarians’ or, ‘savages’. For example, the Oxford Dictionary illustrates the definition of Jungli using the quote, ‘the East India Company decided that it could not allow its employees to go jungli, native’. It also lists ‘primitive, uncivilized, uncultured, uncultivated, uneducated, ignorant’ as synonyms. We are attempting to subvert this meaning by calling ourselves Jungli.”

    Expressing that they have received a lot of support thus far into their joint venture, the team indicates that there has been quite some interest in their ‘no justice, no peace’ t-shirt. “It’s great because it shows that people rally behind and identify with this message.”

    Jungli’s Instagram profile is not only eye-catching but unfolds striking, well curated imagery. Leila has taken various images on the account with both a film and digital camera. Images intended as advertising for the label are more than that, with messages that spread far wider than youth culture captured in an intimate frame lock.

    La’eeqa and Leila look forward to a future of creating more t-shirt designs aimed at challenging complacency within wearer’s spaces with fashion. Taking on a different direction they express a desire to place an emphasis on mental health in the brand’s upcoming designs. “Generally, we want to keep making nice things for people to wear at a more affordable price.” Quality and affordability are of high importance to the up-and-coming brand. Keep a look out for what they have in store for you.

  • LORNE – jewellery for your playful side

    I had a conversation with young jewellery designer and founder of LORNE, Gillian Lawrence.

    Gillian describes the unfortunate event of all her jewellery being stolen as the moment which opened up her design spirit to look at her work differently. Having lost jewellery which held sentimental value for her, her relationship with jewellery was no longer, “about nostalgia. It wasn’t about what my mom gave me or my grandparents gave me. It just became jewellery”. By the time her final year arrived she had dealt with the many questions floating around in her head about her craft, such as ‘Is it art?’ and ‘Why do people like it?’. LORNE was the result of this.

    In the beginning Gillian was preoccupied with trying to create pieces she thought people would want, and ignored her own creative urges. This was until she decided to take a leap and give into her instincts which craved more adventurous pieces. People have reacted positively to this direction for LORNE and has given her the “freedom to just play and find my own language.”.

    tumblr_nf0vfn9gqF1u3antzo1_1280

    Having dabbled with materials such as plastic, resin and glass, Gillian explained to me (with giggle) that metals are her happy place. She mainly works with brass, copper and silver. LORNE also has a range of pieces with pearls.

    Describing her designs as whimsical and playful, Gillian prefers to let the inspiration for her work happen organically. Some of her items take on quite an obvious character, while others are spur-of-the-moment, abstract pieces. As a result, she feels her designs can be appealing to anyone. “I think everyone has a level of self-expression. I mean even my mother is walking around with boobie earrings,” Gillian explained with a giggle.

    Her pieces are currently available at Stocking Fabricate, Creative Revolt, Purr and Mungo & Jemima in Cape Town, or through contacting her directly.

    Check out her website to check out more of her work.

    _K5A9842

     

     

  • Jewellery that makes a wearable declaration of Art: An interview with the creator of Inkaturah designs

    What’s most striking about the Inkaturah brand is its modern take on natural materials. I would first come into contact with this brand at Market on Main, which takes place on Sundays in the Maboneng district. My first piece from the brand would be her black choker with a minimalist gold statement jewel in the shape of a small pillar that would well accentuate any long neck line. Her distinct style offers it’s wearer a statement piece that forms a part of the wearer’s style without distracting the eye from their outfit.

    I got to interview the originator of this unique brand, Siphathisiwe Hlongwane who explains how “each statement piece gives the wearer an opportunity to express themselves and is designed to be a miniature piece of art” (Inkaturah, 2016).

    Motlatsi Khosi (MK):   Please could you tell our Bubblegum readers a bit about yourself and how you got into Jewellery design?

    Siphathisiwe Hlongwane (SH):  I have always been creatively inclined and learnt how to draw from the age of 5. I learnt various techniques and art forms over the years and chose to study architecture. I completed my Masters in 2012 and worked in the profession for two years. I ventured into the fashion industry to follow my passion, working for a global and locally based fashion brand. I began designing and selling jewellery as a second source of income and soon decided to pursue this full time, as I fell in love with the process and collections.

    03_inkturah

    MK:  Please explain the inspiration behind your designs and what characterized the Inkaturah brand.

    SH: Inkaturah means “In essence”. The brand name is derived from Katurah, my second name which means perfume. The analogy of a person’s scent to their character is often used to characterise one’s person.  Inkaturah becomes the character found within their spirit.

     My business is a contemporary African jewellery brand which creates unique pieces for the woman who loves art and wants to make a statement. The aesthetic is a combination of layering of geometries with materials. I have merged the conceptual skills I gained in architecture with my fascination with colour and materials.

    The designs are inspired by various aspects. Some take on the shape of symbolic pieces, such as the drum Ring which is shaped like a little drum. Others are created by using the “negative pieces” or the off cuts and often result in equally beautiful designs as the original piece.

    Some of my other pieces are created to be multifunctional, offering the wearer the opportunity to express two separate aspects of themselves.  I design templates from which the stained wood is laser cut. The resulting geometric shapes are layered with glass beads, copper, fabric and brass, through hand assembly.

     02_inkturah

    MK: You mostly use metals and wood in your work. Please explain your choice of using natural materials and how it has impacted your jewellery design.

    SH: I began using wood as this is a material that I am most familiar working with. I have chosen to include brass, copper, fabric and beads because it creates a great contrast to the wood, breaks monotony and allows for the exploration of various designs. Making a very small change can be the difference between a piece being greatly loved or unappreciated. By constantly introducing new materials it ensures that there are endless designs which keep clients looking forward to new works.

    These materials have impacted my style of jewellery because they are reminiscent of Ancient African jewellery. They create a good balance with the Eurocentric nature of some of the geometries and designs and natural materials.

    04_inkturah

    MK: What are your plans for your brand and what should your followers be looking forward to in future in regards to your style and craft.

    SH: There will be an online store coming soon and the pieces will soon be available globally to its growing foreign following. The intention is to reach as many different countries as possible and to be accessible to all those who appreciate the work.

    There has also been a huge request for male collections and this will definitely be explored soon. The style will more or less remain the same as it is currently unique in its own way. The main focus will be on improving the quality, whilst introducing the presence of precious metals in the pieces. Once this has been well established it will be great to venture into other accessories such as bags and sandals.

    You can follow Inkaturah designs on their Facebook page, or contact Siphathisiwe directly on info@inkaturah.co.za.