Tag: embroidery

  • Love is a Difficult Blue // Cathartic Moments in Collaborative Practice with Ghada Amer & Reza Farkhondeh

    Washes of colour bleed into pools of pleasure. Delicately drawn and intricately articulated. Forms of flesh emerge from thread. The intersection of love and lust. Interjected by a moment of escape from a solitary echo-chamber. Lured by siren call of paint and brush – lifting the veil of separation. Transitioning from viewer to maker. Transgressing from one space to another. Liberation from the binding constructs of one’s own perception, into another dimension.

    The moment Reza Farkhondeh put paint to one of Ghada Amer’s canvases he experienced a cathartic release. An instant free from his own practice. At the time she was away traveling,on seeing what he had done, she was initially shocked and upset. However, over time she warmed to the collective piece. Reza described the experience as “a meeting of two minds…You can create and also watch – you are a part of it, but also not.” The dynamic tension between presence and separation is integral to their collaborative practice.

    Since the early 2000’s they have explored a relationship founded on trust and reciprocity. While working out of their studio in Harlemthey still maintain individual identities and autonomy while engaging in collaborative space. Navigating this can at times be challenging. However, overtime Ghada and Reza have carved tools to combat conflict. Combined authorship is at the crux of their decision-making process. The two artists flip a coin to see who will place their signature above the other’s and hold a secret ballot to decide which of the works are finished. If the outcome does not reveal two affirmative votes, then the piece is further worked into. These democratic systems are used as effective tools to avoid potential moments of tension and ensure a fair trade.

    Their current show, Love is a Difficult Blue opened at Goodman’s Cape Town Gallery on the 18th of January and runs through to the 24th of February.The work explores notions of women and nature as both bearers of life – captured within an industrial patriarchal system of exploitation and oppression. Ghada enlists the female form as an archetypal icon – constructed from an amalgam of images. She uses these bodies, charged with notions of desire, to subvert stereotypes created by the white western male gaze. Intentionally provocative, the figures act as catalysts for conversation around the conventions of art.

    Her use of thread and embroidery stemmed from a frustration around not having access to the ‘man’s world’ of painting. In an interview with Brett Littman she recalled that in 1991 she decided that, “in order for me to paint, I would need to come up with my own technique – which was using the traditional women’s technique of sewing.” Reza describes the forms as “mechanical woman” – rooted in reproduction and systematically flattened through the process of embroidery. This connects to the historical erasure of women and female artists in the western cannon – something Ghada experienced in the curriculum while studying at École Nationale Supérieure d’Arts à la Villa Arson in France.

    This art school also happened to be the site at which they met, in 1988. At the time, Reza was completing a MFA in video and short film. Prior to his engagement with images of the natural world, he worked on a series called Made in China. The series of oil paintings depicted objects that appeared in Dollar Stores – all worth 99 cents. This was followed by a depressive episode – one which was broken by the conceptual freedom of working with landscapes and the catharsis of collaboration. “I guess what broke me out of this self-doubting period was when I painted on Ghada’s canvas in 2000.”

    The two have unified their practice through a process of exchange.  Ghada and Reza both begin in their mark-making working independently on individual canvases, once content, this is followed by exchange for the other to imprint upon. Reza remarked on the moments of voyeurism the shared studio enables – allowing brief windows into each other’s work and process. The pair however, are very careful not to disrupt the other’s practice in those early tentative moments – providing space for the work to evolve quietly.

    Initially their collaboration was established purely as a visual juxtaposition of medium and style. However, this organically grew into integrated layers – with each artist playfully trespassing into the other’s domain. These moments of slippage occur when Reza traces the female form and Ghada raises her brush to his botanical subjects.

    It is in collaboration that the nature of art is revealed  – Steve Lacy

  • AKJP // ‘The Permanent Collection’ – Where fashion and art meet

    AKJP // ‘The Permanent Collection’ – Where fashion and art meet

    The fashion line AKJP came about through the collaboration ‘Adriaan Kuiters + Jody Paulsen’ between artists Jody Paulsen and Adriaan Kuiters designer, Keith Henning. The duo of AKJP both live and work in Cape Town and are well known for their artistic implementation and cutting edge kink on modern pragmatic mens and womenswear.The brand’s identity has been defined with sport enthused motifs and the expansion of robust prints for each collection that has been produced. Their signature style features have been defined with boxy silhouettes, asymmetrical detailing and the use of layering. AKJP is recognised both locally and abroad as one of the country’s most innovative brands and has showcased their latest collection the ‘Permanent Collection’ at SMAC gallery Johannesburg this past Tuesday. How the duo went about creating their new collection, what inspired them as well as the concept behind their campaign will be discussed.

    The ‘Permanent Collection’ is built on modish wardrobe staples as well as limited edition artistic prints created by Jody Paulsen. Intended to set a new foundation for the label and make allowance for the evolution of future lines. The collection is at present centred towards offering everyday wear for South Africans though there are plans to create high end capsule collections focussed on an international audience grounded in the ‘Permanent Collection’.

    The line consists of some defined men’s and women’s silhouettes and the larger majority of the range is comprised of unisex pieces. Classic styles with a renewed touch accompany chic easy to wear shapes available in twills and crisp cottons. The line contains its breaths of lavishness with pieces constructed from hemp, silk and leather.

    Experimentation with collage aided in the development of the artistic prints that enhance some of the pieces within the collection. Jody has drawn his inspiration from artists such as Hans Arp, Henri Matisse and David Hockney and created every design paper cut outs that were digitized and finally printed. To apply patterns to the collection different printing techniques were combined with fabric collage and embroidery.

    Conceiving the concept for the campaign during their design implementation, connections were drawn between the collection silhouettes and prints, and the kind of work that SMAC gallery artists produce. The campaign was photographed at SMAC gallery and takes a look at the relationship between three friends/lovers who have been locked inside the gallery over night. A strong sense of intimacy was captured between the three models by photographer Neil Roberts. The intimacy needed in the photographs were accomplished with ease which might be attributed to the models familiarity with one another due to working together on previous AKJP brand campaigns. The faces of the campaign are Jae Kim who has worked with AKJP from the age of fifteen, AKJP campaign and runway darling, Nina Milner as well as Daniel Defty.

    Jody and Keith’s intention to have the ‘Permanent Collection’ as everyday wear for South Africans is an aspiration that I believe is not wholly attainable as many of the pieces from the range evoke a lux mood because of the use of materials such as silk and delicate intricate sheer detailed pieces. Jody’s artistic prints inspired by artists such as Matisse and Hans Arp also contribute to this lux emotion that is evoked. There are however pieces that might fall into this bracket such as jeans and easy to wear shirt designs. The entire range can thus not be regarded as everyday wear. The brand continues its recognition locally and abroad as one of the country’s most innovative brands and a pioneer of modern day cool in the South African fashion vista.

    Credits

    Jewellery by Steffany Roup

    Hair and Makeup by Gareth Coleman

  • Taking embroidery seriously as an artistic medium

    Women and femmes perform multiple forms of labour which are not always recognized as such due to the fact that there is not monetary remuneration for this. This includes emotional labour and household tasks which are seen as the responsibility of femme beings. It seems fitting to write about two women who are taking a form of labour historically associated with women’s labour in the home and making artwork that highlights its significance.

    London-based artist Hannah Hill creates embroidery works through which she addresses issues related to mental illness, racism and feminist activism. Her love for embroidery came from watching her mother knitting and sewing throughout her childhood. Hannah’s following grew dramatically when she posted one of her artworks in which combined the Arthur meme with text that expressed her frustration around the fact that embroidery and textiles have not been taken seriously as a form of labour and a medium in art history due to its historical association with “women’s work”.

    Hannah’s hand-sewn pieces provide a reflection on the ways in which femme bodies have been stereotyped, the importance of embracing multiple genders and sexual orientations as well as affirmative self-talk when it comes to femme beings. These are communicated with emojis and other symbols associated with internet aesthetics.

    The second artist we are looking at is Danielle Clough. Based in Cape Town, she is not only as an embroiderer but also VJs and is a photographer. Danielle’s embroidery work breaks the mold of traditional embroidery firstly as it is not made to fulfill any household need, she is not embroidering linens. No, Danielle embroiders tennis rackets, sneakers (she did this for Gucci in 2016) and she’s worked on the cover of Queer Africa 2. The subject matters she chooses to portray are also not traditional. Her subject matter consists of portraits of strong female characters (Mia Wallis in Pulp Fiction) and skulls. Her work also ties in with modern culture with her embroidered works of the poop emoji.

    Danielle’s work shows that embroidery has made a shift from being assumed to be a menial household task that women were expected to be able to perform to one of note, to a craft that is museum worthy and that few people still possess the skills to do. Embroidery forms a part of Danielle’s job and she has received commissions from people like Drew Barrymore. Can this really be considered to be a menial household task? No I think not, what is more is that it has elevated to fine arts status.

    What is significant is that the act of hand embroidery, commonly practiced by most women as a measurement of their feminine domesticity, has been revalued as a museum-deserving discipline in the realm of the art world that has historically been male dominated (Barre 2008: 79). But more still needs to be done to acknowledge the significance of this practice, and other forms of labour that women perform.