Tag: cyborgology

  • Onyx Ashanti // “We can be our technology”

    Onyx Ashanti is a musician, programmer, 3D print-designer, writer, performer, inventor…a self described child of the internet, and disciple of the open source philosophy. He is the creator of a new way to combine improvisation, dance and sound design with his invention “Beatjazz”, which merges between art and science, representing the intersection of hardware, software and concept.

    As a raver in the ’90s, Onyx Ashanti felt very strongly about the synergistic power of electronically generated music and psychedelic compounds for constructing new realities, and so he set out to design new realities. “The goal is that this completely interfaces with data and social reality so that they merge into something that evolves.”

    The Beatjazz Controller is a wearable, wireless, 3-node network interface for a complete live performance architecture designed to enable completely immersive live electronic performance. I interviewed Onyx Ashanti to find out more about where the idea came from and how it has evolved.

    Who is Onyx Ashanti?

    There are multiple answers to that question. Onyx Ashanti is the name that came to me in a dream after the verdict of acquittal for the officers involved in the Rodney King police-terrorist attack, back in 1992, as the beginning of a journey to comprehend myself anew.  But also, Onyx Ashanti is a guy I dreamed up as a child. Someone who was who I wanted to be when I grow up. And still again, Onyx Ashanti is a transitional myth to get me to the next iterative stage of self design. The name allows me to paint reality and design my self.

    You can do what you do because of this interface you have created. Can you briefly describe why you began the process of developing this system?

    That depends on your definition of what I do. The interface is in a constant transitional state. I think of it as a kind of coherent boredom modulator. The interface is the artifact at the end of the process trajectory. The real game is in the design and programming of something that can interact with the idea matrix to produce such an artifact. I’ve had grand ideas for ages but only recently has computing power been sufficiently powerful and cheap to allow for those ideas to be interacted with in realtime at such high quality. I feel that if I can create something that can modulate boredom, then it will have other cognitive benefits as well. That helps move it out of the zone of entertainment and into the realms of reality design, based on the idea of reality as a projection. This would make the “music” it produces a psycho-cymatic, sono-synaptic reconfigurator…THAT has definitely modulated my boredom, as a musician of 35 years, and will have beautifully unpredictable results. So I guess interactive unpredictability is an easy way to say why I do what I do and what made me start.

    Photography by Onyx Ashanti

    Your work is starting to link into cybernetics with the addition of a neural transmitter added into your interface. How is that coming along? (as you nearly caught on fire before one of your TED talk events). Is it making progress in terms of how you want it to interact with your interface and can you give us a short idea of what it does?

    Hahahaha, yeah, I solved the fire problem :-). Now I call what I do, sonocybernetics. It is the transduction of data into sound. The purpose of this sonic transduction is to make use of the brains ability to adapt to any form of coherent data input, in this case, sound. Humans have very sophisticated sound computational mental architecture, baked in. So currently I have been working on refining ways of understanding sound in a computational sense, like typing, mouse control, navigation and ronbotic control,  but also for neuromodulation i.e. entertaining the wave dynamics of the brain. I needed to get the system stable before I moved on to the next step which is to read realtime EEG (brain waves) signals into the system to guide my neuromodulation  protocols more precisely. I feel strongly that there is a communication that can be had within oneself that will result in unpredictable “non-bored” states. And since the system has so much room for evolution (I am currently only using 8 parameters out of a possible 255), it will evolve exponentially beyond a certain point….theoretically.

    Each new parameter added doubles the complexity of the output. The primary synth is called “complexity” as it is for playing with complex modifications to the sound, in real time. There is also a keyboard and mouse replacement with sonic feedback called Func. This is what makes it an interface instead of just a musical instrument. The music trains the brain as well as provides feedback for all the functions of the system. This constant feedback and expression is where the cybernetics aspect expresses itself.

    Do you have any prior history/knowledge with the study of cyborgology and post-humanism?

    My previous interactions were all mediated through pop culture but in the last 7-8 years, I have voraciously read research papers and subscribed to various blogs  and authors who have more grounded ideas regarding what is doable and what is possibly responsible. My issue with cyborgology from a pop-cultural stand point is that they are always a project of some sort of skunkworks…they, the cyborg, never just iterate themselves. The cybernetics are always impressed from outside of their own control. That aspect of cyborg mythology is irritating.  Norbert Wiener, the creator of cybernetics, thought so to and even wrote a book about the issue called “The Human Use of Human Beings” on the topic, and post humanism is a sort of dressed-up self hate, in my mind. How can we be post-human when we haven’t mastered being human yet.  Or even really have a reasonable grasp as to what this state of being actually is.  Let’s focus on being optimal-human and from there emerge into whatever state that creates. Post-human and trans-human both leave me cold in regards to a ‘why’. That question became a much more interesting one, when asked after the emergence of open source technology like arduino, reprap 3D printers, linux, pure data…new questions with much more interesting new answers. Trans/post humanism must be re-assessed now and perpetually as a self iterated form. But the emphasis and trajectory should be on optimal humanism first, which will intuitively move toward transhumanism. Post-humanism, to my mind, is a question for someone else other than myself. The other two I just mentioned are  keeping me fully engaged.

    Photography by Etienne_b

    How do you think our relationship with technology is changing?

    I think of technology as a noun and a verb. In my mind, technology is the natural expression of human beings. It is the hard coding of ideas into time. “Our” depends on whether you are predominately creating technology or consuming it. For those that create and modify technology, the ability to go from idea space to time space in 1-3 steps is creating a new dimension of possibility. We can evolve ourselves now. We can be our technology. New questions have to be asked and new answers must be comprehended usefully. For those that do comprehend, it is important for them to create a bridge to those that do not. A way for anyone to be able to program their reality as well. When we all realize that technology is what we do as a species, we can design the entire construct to be more communal and participatory. Open source technology moved in this direction strongly.

    How do you think cybernetics will transform design, art and fashion in the up and coming years?

    Well, cybernetics at its most simple would be the ability to constantly interact with the data and information used for the process one is involved with so things are increasingly able to emerge more and more quickly from idea space.  Instead of 2-3 years to get to a point, things can be sorted in weeks or months. Core ideas in hours or days. Also creativity can bloom without the necessity of  large sums of money, which will and already has enabled a cross pollination of disciplines. I see this trend becoming much more fractal if only just in my own work.

    so…

    When this fully integrates itself into fashion, which to me is purely body worn symbology, it will mutate every single preconceived notion of what people wear on their bodies. Self-iterated personalized fashion will have a profound effect on society because how one dresses projects affiliation with resonant ideas. So I feel strongly that every dominant fashion expression that currently exists will form the primordial basis for much and many mutations which will cross pollinate endlessly as it becomes the “norm“, whatever normal means anymore.

    I’ve been wearing 3D printed footwear only, for the last 2 years and I had no idea how much people look at each others feet. But add to that that my “exo-feet” have also made my feet vastly stronger than they were before I started wearing them and can see very clearly now how to take those benefits and build on them going into the future(s), with evolving techniques that emerge as I learn more about myself while wearing them.

    With technology advancing at such a rapid rate, you seem to be creating new enhancements for your interface at a rapid pace. It is helping with your progression?

    Learning how to learn iteratively, has been the greatest asset  gained from the last decade, for me. Having an interface that will, say, eventually allow me to interact with CRISPR technology (gene editing), means that I can funnel everything I learn through a cybernetic prosthesis that enhances brain function and information interaction by converting it into sound forms. Everything is digital now which means that better digital interfacing will be immediately applicable to any form of information I want to study and use. My thoughts on the idea of the “singularity” are that the human brain/mind are natures quantum computer and nothing I have ever read in any research paper gives me the impression that there is any limit to what we can learn, process and use, if we interact with it constructively and intuitively. We could easily outpace computers intellectually because we can use the computers as prosthesis to do it.

  • Nirma Madhoo – exploring digital aesthetics through fashion films

    Describing herself as “culturally hybrid” and an “accidental nomad”, Mauritian born Nirma Madhoo moved to South Africa in 1998. She was based between the UK and South Africa for 2 years, studying fashion photography and fashion filmmaking. Now based in Durban, her work continues to think about how fashion environments are shaped by digital tools.

    Her latest fashion film ‘Labtayt Sulci’ showed at this year’s Berlin Fashion Film Festival, and combines a natural landscape with the digital, creating a dreamy, “otherworldly” visual and sonic experience. The futuristic and the surrealist amalgamate. The graceful body movements of the models in her film are transformed into glitchy movements, allowing models to take on an alien or robotic characteristic.  However, Nirma manages to maintain a softness and humanness in these characters. With her work being informed by posthumanist and futurist thinking and aesthetics, I interviewed Nirma about her exploration of digital aesthetics.

    On your website you stated that you originally studied fashion design, and worked as a design educator and digital fashion media producer. Could you let us know more about your background in fashion and the digital?

    I am trained as a fashion designer at Durban University of Technology (DUT) and did the young designer ‘thing’ for a while before starting to lecture fashion theory in 2007. Then in 2013, I went off on a sabbatical to train as a fashion photographer and fashion filmmaker at the London College of Fashion (LCF). My interest in the digital stems from my upbringing – my father who was a science teacher got the family one of the first personal computers to be commercialized, the ZX Spectrum and I grew up surrounded by cameras and gadgets. I think these were incredibly formative in who I became although my passion for the digital crystallized only when I undertook my second Masters at LCF – an institution spearheading research in digital fashion.

    How did you get into making fashion films?

    My first Masters at DUT researched aspects of construction of the fashion image so the interest was always there. The definitive trigger was watching the fashion films broadcast via digital platforms such as SHOWstudio in the early 2010s. I realized there was something new and exciting that was happening in the fashion world and I wanted to be part of it.

    Could you please provide some context on the fashion film world you are a part of?

    The fashion film world is open and accessible to anyone with a cellphone and internet connection. Submission to fashion film festivals are equally accessible to everyone from anywhere in the world. In my case, I have found that the LCF network is especially supportive of its alumni and I am slowly developing a network in South Africa where there are small circuits of progressive thinking. I must say that Johannesburg is at the forefront of this especially in terms of digitality.

    Looking at your fashion films ‘Future Body‘ and ‘Labtayt Sulci’, they have a similar look in terms of the colours used and the kind of flow created through your direction and music. Do you have a particular style you try to stick to aesthetically?

    I am glad that this is noticeable. I am trying to explore a particular sensibility and aesthetic that will hopefully become something of a signature across my portfolio. Having trained in fashion, I understand it very well and for the productions that I am now conceptualizing and directing, I have a very definite idea of how they should look and feel. For my personal projects I try embed a futuristic feel as well as create fashion identities which are alternative but at the same time relatable in a wider context.

    Image from Future Body

    On your website you state that ‘Future Body’ was about exploring digital aesthetics with your fashion films. Could you please expand on this? Is your current work a continuation of this?

    My personal projects all explore digital aesthetics. Our times are defined by the wider macro technological changes. Very much like how the Age of the Machine in the 1920/30s engendered a whole new aesthetic and design language that defined the fashion of those eras. The tools that the digital provides for both producing and viewing media undoubtedly affect how we both construe and project ourselves. My work interrogates how we conceptualize fashion and fashion identities in environments shaped by these tools. There are significant ontological and epistemological questions that have emerged with innovations in digital imaging and ultimately the concept of aesthetics – these I hope to investigate via further studies andmy current personal projects which are also practice-based research.

    On your website you also state that you work “explores discourses of the future and digital aesthetic in fashion new media” – could you please expand on this?

    Fashion media is not about representation anymore. It has become about interactivity and embodiment with technologies such as Virtual Reality, Augmented reality and Mixed Reality. We understand that historically fashion has not been just about the clothes on our bodies, it was and still is about ways of beings and serves to takes us to different places and different times. With these new media tools, these capabilities are surely augmented, extended..In what ways? My work speculates on that.

    Your latest fashion film ‘Labtayt Sulci’ showed at the Berlin Fashion Film Festival 2017. Could you please reflect on the experience. Was the first time you were part of a fashion film festival?

    It was exciting to have Labtayt Sulci show at a public screening at BFFF this month. I have previously shown at London Short Film Festival and Aesthetica Short Film Festival (UK);but also Melbourne Fashion Festival along with the work of artists such as Bart Hess and Hussein Chalayan whose work I look to for inspiration.

    Labtayt Sulci has a dreamy, surrealist and slightly futuristic look and feel. Could you please expand on the kind of direction you wanted for the film?

    Labtayt Sulci is inspired by NASA’s explorations of Saturn’s moons by the Cassini expedition. Digital renders of Enceladus by NASA / JPL / Space Science Institute are the most evocative ice-blue textured surface with accounts of this being an icy crust over a warm ocean that may have hold extra-terrestrial life. These images of Enceladus (one of which opens Labtayt Sulci) are digitally rendered, not entirely realistic, but really captured my imagination. I remember then also seeing Mann’s World,which was shot in Iceland in Christopher Nolan’s Interstellar, and making the visual link between Enceladus and this. Labtayt Sulci was therefore partially filmed in Southern Iceland’s glaciers. I wanted the landscapes to be natural (as opposed to the synthetic world in Future Body) and to tap in the natural sublime while still looking digital. Keywords for art direction included ‘otherworldly’, ‘atmospheric’, ‘exobiological’, ‘ice moon’.

    Image from Labtayt Sulci

    It’s incredible how you are able to transform the graceful body movements of the model into these glitchy movements while still maintaining a softness. Could you expand on how you achieved this?

    A combination of video and sound editing possibly provides the alchemy to translate movement such as this in the fashion films. Casting and directing of actual fashion models for live action filming ensures that is there is inherently grace. Strategic post-production manipulation / VFX help achieve cyborg/alien sensibilities that challenge traditional ideals of beauty. The identities are open to interpretation – they retain anthropomorphic qualities for most and are therefore relatable and accessible in the context of popular fashion but then also encode sub-text which provide alternatives to stereotypical womens’ identities in fashion media.

    The music elevates the mood you create in these films. Could you please expand what informs your sonic choices for these films, particularly the film you showed in Berlin?

    The sonic landscape sometimes informs the way in which the fashion film is actually cut. In my case I select the audio in preliminary stages and use it as a guide but then also simultaneously edit it to fit the non-narrative structure the productions take. ‘Labtayt Sulci’ in particular utilizes 4 electronic soundtracks, which immerse the audience in an ambient surreal environment on an elemental journey from ice, atmosphere and mist to aquatic and subterranean on a hypothetical Enceladus.

    Image from Labtayt Sulci

    Your work appears to be informed by posthumanist and futurist thinking and aesthetics. Am I correct in saying this? What particularly about these frameworks do you find interesting and how do you think your films help you to explore these?

    Yes that is correct. As a consumer of fashion images, I became tired of normative sexualized or decorative roles that women have in mainstream fashion editorials. I could not relate to these on a personal level. As an image-maker I therefore went on to use my areas of experience in teaching fashion / contextual studies to underpin my fashion media work with theory. I have a subjective interest in science fiction as genre; fashion identities that are constructed in my projects therefore hinge on notions of a cyborgian or exobiological other. Hybrid identities – human/machine discourse projected onto the ‘other’ or on the female body is transgressive. Perhaps not overtly, but it certainly goes against the entrenched norms stemming from a ubiquitous but invisible patriarchic system. We read that in theorist Donna Haraway’s work, and experience it in daily life where ‘tech’ and ‘space’ are gendered as masculine. I suppose that what I find interesting about these frameworks is that their rejection of hegemonic structures of power via fiction, speculation and futurism literally provides uncharted territory to create compelling and aspirational narratives.

    What are you working on at the moment?

    An exciting transmedia project that looks at (pan-)African digital identity and futurism.

    Check out Nirma’s latest fashion film ‘Labtayt Sulci’ below

     

    Credits for Labtayt Sulci (2016)

    Photography and Direction: Nirma Madhoo
    VFX: Alastair McColl
    Model: Maxine at Anti-Agency | Akhona Sibisi at Ice Durban
    Styling: Hangna Koh
    Fashion: Yun-Pai Liu + Siwon Lee + Sasha Louise + Lien Lieu

    Costume: Shari Akal Fowles  |  Shoes: Iris van Herpen x United Nude
    HMUA: Holly Jordan + Kat Krupa-Ringuet + Wadene Ngubane
    DP + Camera: Kit McKenzie + Nick Morris + Jimmy Reynolds
    Additional Camera: Hung-Chun Wang + Shayne Chipps
    Production assistant: Khristopher Morgan
    Video Editing: Nirma Madhoo
    Image Credit (Enceladus): NASA | JPL | Space Science Institute 2008
    Special thanks to:
    London College of Fashion, Global Outlook Award 2015
    White Light Ltd London | Arcanum Glacier Tours Iceland | Arcanum Guesthouse Iceland

    Credits for Future Body (2015)

    Photography and Direction: Nirma Madhoo

    Featuring Alice Hurel from First Model Management, London
    CGI | 3D modeling | animation: Jenne van der Meer | Devon Fay | Joy Fay
    Costume Design: Adriana Restrepo | Leanne Broadway
    Fashion: Dioralop
    Shoes: Iris van Herpen for United Nude
    Stylist: Hangna Koh
    Make-up Artist: Kat Krupa Ringuet | Josie Chan
    DP: Nick Morris | Nicholas Stylianou
    Camera Operators: Nick Morris | Nicholas Stylianou | Hung-Chun Wang
    Grip | Gaffer: Hung-Chun Wang
    Production Assistant: Yang Ruijia
    Audio Technician: Andrew Sutherland
    VFX | Post-Production: Alastair McColl | Nirma Madhoo