Tag: accessories

African Space Travellers Organisation: MaXhosa SS23/24 Collection at Zeitz

For a while now, MaXhosa Africa has been a beacon of luxury that showcases the beauty and versatility of the African continent. The brand’s mission seeks to reposition culture as a prominent and influential thought leader in society, not just for the present, but for generations to come. Of course, as these values align with BubblegumClub’s own, we have kept our eye firmly focused on the inspiring trajectory of this homegrown brand.

A South African knitwear brand founded by Laduma Ngxokolo in 2012, it all started as a thesis project at Nelson Mandela University. Inspired by his Xhosa heritage and the traditional male initiation ceremony, Amakrwala, Ngxokolo’s signature aesthetic is a contemporary interpretation of traditional Xhosa beadwork patterns, symbols, and colours. His collections are known for their geometric patterns and vibrant hues.

Over the years, the brand has expanded to include not only fashion but also accessories and home decor. It has gained worldwide recognition, with Ngxokolo winning prestigious awards such as the Vogue Italia Scouting for Africa prize in 2014. His designs have been worn by celebrities like Beyoncé, Alicia Keys, and John Kani, and a MaXhosa cable-knit sweater was featured in the Museum of Modern Art’s Is Fashion Modern? (2018) exhibition in New York City.

MaXhosa Africa recently launched its SS23/24 collection at Zeitz MOCAA in Cape Town. The choice of venue was strategic and marked the start of a significant partnership between the fashion brand and the museum, with MaXhosa’s distinctive homeware incorporated into the Zeitz MOCAA member’s lounge. This show was MaXhosa’s debut solo show in Cape Town. Held so close to their V&A Waterfront store, it was bolstered by the museum’s unwavering support for contemporary African creativity and its unique architectural design.

The futuristic extravaganza was nothing short of stunning as models descended the museum’s central glass elevators, which served as a cosmic gateway. Drawing inspiration from African folklore, astrology and spirituality, the collection, aptly named A.S.T.O. (African Space Travellers Organisation), featured an impressive line-up of 80 looks. One of the most notable aspects of the show was the diverse range of models, representing various body types and gender identities found across the African continent.

The show introduced several standout pieces poised to become timeless classics for the brand. Among these were panelled knits and patchwork accents on dresses and suits. The range merged tradition with innovation, introducing new additions such as summer-ready printed t-shirts and swimwear pieces, cutouts and coverups featuring MaXhosa’s signature monogram patterns. By taking the collection to the poolside and oceanside, MaXhosa demonstrated the versatility of its design aesthetic.

At a press conference held ahead of the show, its Founder and Creative Director Ngxokolo said, “MaXhosa Africa is at once a heritage brand and a brand that reflects the Zeitgeist in Africa, bringing the stories of the continent to an international community … We are in the business of pushing boundaries while continuing to honour our African heritage and style. We are part of the group demystifying the aesthetic that African designers cannot compete with the big players in the luxury space.”

The event was a smash hit and saw a snazzy guest list, including media professionals and a whos who of Cape Town’s fashion, design, and art scene. Well conceived and efficiently organised, it was an undeniable testament to MaXhosa Africa’s unstoppable influence and significance within the fashion industry. With such a stellar track record of innovation and excellence, this iconic African fashion house promises a future brimming with even more transformative and neoteric undertakings. We can’t help but be left thirsting for more!

1 November 2023
PICHULIK FW 17 Collection // embracing the qualities of Wabi-Sabi

Katherine-Mary Pichulik, owner and designer of PICHULIK, enjoys going through her great-grandmother’s trousseau. It allows her to connect to her female lineages and understand the journeys that have informed the woman that she is today. One particular photograph that she found became the foundation for the direction she took for PICHULIK’s FW17 collection. It was a photograph of a woman her great-grandmother had met in the ’50s in Japan. On the back of the photograph were the word, “Mother”. This forensic investigation into the kind of woman her great-grandmother was, and this connection to Japan, inspired Katherine-Mary to look to Japanese aesthetic practices for this collection.

The culture and sense of community among Japanese Ama pearl divers was one main source of inspiration for the jewelry collection. This 2000 year old practice of women free diving in the ocean without protective gear or oxygen has an immediate connection to the PICHULIK brand. The women tie rope around their waists during their dives and rope is the main material for PICHULIK accessories. Originally a practice to forage for shellfish, over the years the practice has become one which involves diving for pearls. “What was so inspiring is the bold courage of these women to go deep under the ocean,” Katherine-Mary explained, “What I also found exciting is that these pearls also symbolically represent women.”. Katherine-Mary also explained that there is an association between pearls and the moon. The Ama collection brings an awareness to the connection between the moon, the ocean and the feminine.

Women are always the protagonists in the conceptualization of PICHULIK collections, and so the story of the divers, the pearls and the brand amalgamate perfectly. PICHULIK is about, “using jewelry and ornamentation, the oldest modalities from the Neolithic period, as a conduit to share empowering messages to women as well as to share stories cross-culturally that show female self-inquiry, bravery and alchemy of sorts.”.

In addition to their main material, the collection uses base metals such like brass and bronze. Katherine excitedly explained that these materials oxidize due to exposure to salt water or exposure to oxygen, and the PICHILIK pieces embrace the true nature of these materials. “So the pieces are not only dripped with pearls but they also age with time and take on the qualities of Wabi-Sabi”; an aesthetic practice that shows appreciation and acceptance of imperfections. Wood also features as another elemental force which can be seen in their Haiko earrings and Pagoda neckpiece.

The Japanese flower arranging practice of Ikebana is another source of inspiration for the collection, which can be seen directly in their FW17 lookbook.

Under the PICHULIK umbrella is the fashion side designed by Nadya von Stein. Having grown with the brand since graduating from fashion school, Nadya combines her Italian-style tailoring with the creative direction of the brand. For the FW17 collection they worked with fabric from Mungo, a hand-loom company based in Plettenberg Bay. Re-imagining their Mungo’s first run of patterns, Nadya designed power suit combinations that reference ’80s maximism. The rest of the garments are constructed from hand-dyed hemp in rich colours such as deep reds and maroons. The fashion and jewelry collection speak to one another in the way in which they are designed to celebrate ideas of self-love and feminine energies.

Looking at classic and non-traditional Ikebana arrangements, and referencing beautiful portraits of Ama pearl divers, the lookbook has a slightly cinematic feel, marrying ’80s opulence with Japanese minimalism. “[We wanted] you to feel as if you had gone on a journey or process of some kind,” Katherine-Mary explained. Contrasting elements were compiled together, with satin gloves and Ikebana arrangements alongside over the top embellishments. Shots by the ocean connect back to the influence of the ocean and create a dreamy, sci-fi feel.

The evolution of PICHUIK over the years has seen the team pushing towards building a community around the brand’s message. Encouraging empowering dialogues and authentic conversations with women, “supporting and celebrating ideas of self-love, self-actualization, self-inquiry, [and] self -nurturing” continue to be the foundation for PICHULIK’s creative direction.

Lookbook credits:
Stylist: Gabbi Kannemeyer
Photographer: Alix-Rose Cowie
Videographer: Maxine Thaysen
Ikebana specialist: Cynthia Fan
Model: Gwen Lu
Make up: Sandra Bensoussan

1 June 2017
Not Seen Store – where functionality and style meet

Luke Maritz is the creator of Not Seen Store, the Cape Town based brand, locally hand crafted and inspired by counter culture, youth culture, streetwear and graffiti. On edge and not on hype.

Not Seen has recently launched its online store that is designed exceedingly well. Navigation is easy, the typography selected for the overall feel is wonderful and so is the logo design. Of course what mostly drew my attention was the actual design of the products and their superb lookbooks.

In conversation I had with the creator and owner of the brand he mentioned that his branding concept was created initially as an idea to provide an online platform to buy and resell products like analogue cameras. Maritz continues by saying that due to continuous positive reaction his brand quickly developed into what it is today.

What I find so undeniably intriguing about Not Seen is the fact that Maritz not only designs the products which consists of roadmap bags, fanny packs and rain ponchos, he also does all the styling and photography of the lookbooks himself. His label is a personally directed branding concept. Maritz is an incredibly talented individual with not only the gift of a photographer’s eye but a key sense of design and color combinations. He is bringing out an extremely vivid edginess in his brand that has become his signature. Maritz is not just an entrepreneur. He is an artist.

Not Seen focuses predominantly on the roadmap bag and fanny pack, which has been making its way back onto the streets and the runways of the fashion world since 2015 as a unique way of carrying essentials.

What all Not Seen’s products have in common is their minimalist design using primary colors and black. The products are durable and well constructed. These designs can be used to customize quite a number of different ensembles as can be seen when looking at how Maritz styles his lookbooks. What is striking about this branding concept is how Maritz keeps it proudly South African by using Cape Town’s natural environments as well as cityscape as the backdrop for his lookbooks.

His choice of models subtly reminds me of the type of models American Apparel often steered towards; they fit the “street brand” image incredibly well and have an edgy, rebel teen look to them that is setting the tone for this off beat brand.

The most important thing to recognize about Maritz’ brainchild is that it is intended to add value to the consumers daily experience. In Luke’s own words, his brand is not hype and is here to stay. Not Seen Store is already making waves and I look forward to seeing the vision grow.

17 April 2017
Who killed Steve Biko?: Siki Msuseni is asking the hard questions through fashion

Clothes are more than just a fashion statement. It is a testament to our ability of self-expression as well as a reflection of our ideas. Siki Msuseni has released a tote bag that is striking but also challenging our understanding of our South African struggle history. The tote features the iconic illustration of a tearful Steve Biko and on its other side the question, “Who killed Steve Biko?”

Motlatsi Khosi (MK): Who is Siki Msuseni and how did she begin her journey with Pigments Studio?

Siki Museni (MS): Siki Msuseni is this ambitious young lady who allows nothing to stand in her way in attaining her dreams. I am this young friendly, talkative and ball of energy person.

I began my journey with Pigments Studio a while back, for those that know me from way back knew that I had a Style blog called “All Things Intriguing”, with that I decided to rebrand my blog and call it Pigments Studio and have a business leg to it as I always wanted to own something of my own, to be an entrepreneur. So Pigments Studio started at the beginning of this year after months of business strategy brainstorming. This is a collaborative platform but also a business. So the name Pigments Studio comes from my love for colour. The ‘Studio’ aspect is the idea that one day I want to have a studio space where you have a whole production space where people are creating items. Pigments Studio is solely based on fashion / clothing industry.

MK: What brought about the creation of the ‘Who killed Biko?’ tote bags? What was the need for such a bag?

SM: Well this is a collaborative work between Crowded Wolf (founded by Xolani Dani) and Pigments Studio (Founded by me).

I have always wanted to put meaningful work out there and always have ideas running in my mind so I decided to put this down on paper and send a brief to Xolani and asked him if he would be interested in a collaborative work of this sort and so we started this series of work.

A lot of things triggered the creation of the “Who killed Biko?” tote bags. A lot was omitted about South African history in our curriculum while I was in school, and it still is. Looking at the remarkable current events I felt that there was a need to open dialogue with the past events while focusing on what is happening now. We are in a state of political instability and this shows in our current events, the bags are a way to say, let’s go back to the drawing board. Who killed all these great leaders? Would South Africa turn out to be this kind of South Africa if they were not killed?

MK: What do you hope to achieve with this project?

SM: This is a series of works that I hope to start a dialogue with. For us to continue talking about South African history and educating each other while trying to find the answers. I have observed that in order for one to speak on any political matter one needs to be well read and articulate on these matters, I am trying to kill that. I want anyone to be able to have an opinion about the history of South Africa any ordinary person on the streets, We value everyone’s opinion. And that is why I have chosen to use fashion as a medium of activism. We’re not all eloquent but we can use different mediums to drive our message. So the person who is carrying one of our “Who killed Biko?” tote bag is essentially starting a conversation in their little corner.

I also hope to find answers of who really orchestrated the death of Steve Biko? Who was behind it all because I am currently getting a whole lot of different answers to this question.

I hope for us to celebrate being black, to stand together united and to share the little that we have and kill the ‘scarcity mentality’. So as one wears this bag, I want them to feel that they are part of something big and when they see the next person carrying the same tote bag, there should be a sense of pride and unity in the individuals.

MK: I see two stories at play in the bags. The first is the image of a Biko, a black man crying. Is this a Biko lamenting his untaught past or the tears of all of us at the loss of such a hero?

It’s a play on the fact that Biko has always been depicted as a strong and bold leader. So here on the bag I show his vulnerability and the pain that he went through when he was arrested in that roadblock and the brutality he experienced in his service of fighting for a better South Africa for black people. It’s also a cry of the unknown answer of who orchestrated his death?

The second is a call to change. An almost accusatory exclamation is being made about the ‘Biko myth’. It is forcing us to re-think the history surrounding his story. Please could you respond to this idea as well.

Indeed I want you to take a closer look at what was fed to us about our country’s history, and now that we have grown up to realize that the education system has fed us hogwash omitting a lot about South African history. This question is a way of saying that we have realized and taken it upon ourselves to dig out the honest answers about the history of South Africa.

Also please take a read of my blog post about the “Who killed Biko?” tote bags here.

You can also follow me on Instagram

5 September 2016
Urban Mosadi, A Purveyor of Pan African Luxury

In any metropolis, street style offers a reflection of the society at hand. The sartorial selections of the urbanites in question offer glimpses into their cultures and creativity. Urban Mosadi accessories are pan African pieces for the stylish and urbane. Tiisetso Molobi, the mother of UrbanMosadi, has imprinted part of her own personality on the pieces, they are unmistakable; her signature low-key luxury complimented by authentic African materials.

Knowledgeable on the rich history of the materials used in her designs, Tiisetso, reflects on how the stories contained in the Kente and mudcloth hold our heritage as Africans, she says, “Imagine all the wonderful stories that these textiles hold? How can one not want to show them off and share them with the world? But most importantly, with our peers across the rest of the continent? It’s a dope way to share identity.”

Urban Mosadi pieces offer a doorway into the history of Africa in a powerful, and beautiful way, her bags and camera straps can be found on the bodies of the talented and trendy the world over, she counts the likes of AKA and Trevor Stuurman amongst her clients. The Mudcloth lookbook profiles Tiisetso on a day in her life, her pieces peppered throughout the day as she works, skates and cycles through Cape Town. The laid back luxury of the collection is vivified in the video, each piece pulled together to portray a beautiful balance between fashion and function, work and play. It is sublime.

Connect with UrbanMosadi here

29 January 2016