Author: Christa Dee

  • Pop Caven // a streetwear brand foregrounding African pop culture

    Pop Caven // a streetwear brand foregrounding African pop culture

    Pop Caven is a streetwear brand that combines pop culture, cheeky plays with typography and African histories in their collections of tees and sweatshirts. Started in 2016 by sisters Joan and Doreen Caven, the name for the brand is a showing of gratitude towards their father who they credit for nurturing the “pop culture loving, classic film obsessed, African art history geeks we turned out to be”. The intention for the brand is to highlight African artists, musicians, tastemakers and influencers who continue to pushed back against the distorted views of the continent, and who solidified the importance of local knowledge systems and creativity.

    They recognize that pop culture is large worldwide and that African people have an equally large buying power. Joan and Doreen take the nostalgia they have for their childhood, their exposure to global pop culture brands and mash them together with culturally significant references from Nigeria. One of their most recognizable tees sees the Coca Cola typeface with the words ‘Kola Nut’, which is sacred in Igbo culture (their own culture) and is used to welcome guests into one’s village or home. They have also used the FILA logo, and changed the words to ‘FELA’ as a tribute to one of Nigeria’s musical icons. There latest collection includes ‘Accra’ written in the DHL font, the ‘Africa is not a country’ slogan and ‘No Wahala’ [slang for no worries or no problem] with records, roses and leopards on tees. While these items take on a the character of a parody, each one serves  as a platform to teach, inspire and remember. Wearers and viewers have to do a double take, flipping the script for these well-known logos and typefaces.

    The Pop Caven website allows browsers to shop for their latest collections, as well as have access to information about fellow artists, designers and creatives of African descent in the section ‘Pop x Platform’. This is a direct step towards making sure creatives are able to present their work to a global audience, and offer the opportunity for them to build their own brands.

    “Straight from Africa, delivered to the world”. This section in their brand bio emphasizes how the two aspects – their clothing and their platform for other creatives – combine to take ownership of creativity and distribution.

    Check out the Pop Caven website for their latest tees and sweaters.

  • (BUT) WHAT ARE YOU DOING ABOUT WHITE SUPREMACY? // an exhibition and programme reflecting on racial tension, representation and the Black experience

    (BUT) WHAT ARE YOU DOING ABOUT WHITE SUPREMACY? // an exhibition and programme reflecting on racial tension, representation and the Black experience

    London-based, multidisciplinary art collective sorryyoufeeluncomfortable in collaboration with The Gallow Gate present the exhibition and programme (BUT) WHAT ARE YOU DOING ABOUT WHITE SUPREMACY? as part of the Glasgow International 2018 Supported Programme. For the exhibition collective members Christopher Kirubi, Halima Haruna, Rabz Lansiquot, Mayfly Mutyambizi, Imani Robinson and Jacob V Joyce respond to the programme title. The exhibition will be surrounded by talks, workshops, performances and a film screening, with the intention of inviting audiences to engage with questions related to racial tensions, representation, translation and the experiences of people of colour. I interviewed Imani and Rabz to find out more about sorryyoufeeluncomfortable and the programme they have curated.

    Please share more about the Baldwin’s Nigger Reloaded project and how it led to the formation of sorryyoufeeluncomfortable.

    The Baldwin’s Nigger Reloaded project was started by Barby Asante [London-based artist, curator and educator] and Teresa Cisneros [cultural producer who has worked as arts manager, curator and arts educator] in 2014. They did a call out for young artists and thinkers to respond to Horace Ové’s 1968 film Baldwin’s Nigger; a documentary in which James Baldwin gives a speech and answers a series of questions from a London audience. Over 10 weeks we came together to respond to Horace Ove’s 1968 film Baldwin’s Nigger, focusing on the contemporary relevance of the themes that emerge in the film, and James Baldwin’s thought more generally. We produced artworks, performances and workshops which were showcased in a one-day event at Rivington Place [visual arts centre in London]. It was this project that brought the collective together and kick started our journey. Baldwin’s Nigger Reloaded was developed into a performance created by Barby Asante which has been shown at Nottingham Contemporary, Art Rotterdam, Tate Liverpool & The James Baldwin Conference, Paris, and will also be shown as part of Glasgow International Festival in May.

    Please share more about the name for the collective, and the thinking behind making this the collective name?

    During our residency at Iniva [Institute of International Visual Arts in London] in 2014, we knew we wanted to take the collective beyond the BNReloaded project and our initial reasons for coming together as a group. sorryyoufeeluncomfortable was a brilliant fit for us. It articulated what we couldn’t always vocalise in art spaces, which are so often spaces of privilege, exploitation and palatable politics. As a majority non-white, non-heterosexual group of artists and thinkers we were often made to feel unwelcome in art spaces, with both our politics and our being-in-the-space always seeming to make other people flinch. sorryyoufeeluncomfortable is a flipping of the script. The name operates with multiplicity, it’s shady and sarcastic and on-the-nose and also an act of care and recognition for each other.

    How has the collective evolved over the years?

    The collective began with the BNReloaded project, with 16 members who were between 18 and 25 and artist Barby Asante & curator Teresa Cisneros as our mentors and primary producers. The collective actually works more like a network or community of artists now, who are working around similar themes and having concurrent conversations, so members appear and disappear on a project by project basis. At the moment the collective is being led by 4 people, with Rabz Lansiquot and Imani Robinson producing, programming and curating the work and Jacob V Joyce and Zviki Mutyambizi in supportive roles. We also have a fluid group of contributors and mentors, including Barby and Teresa who have remained close collaborators. The work shifts according to people’s primary interests but the central thread is always radical & liberatory politics and what it means to be living and working in the current climate.

    Where did the title for the programme come from?

    If you’ve ever asked a white person (be they a friend or a stranger) what they are doing about white supremacy, you’ll probably have an anecdote about a slow descent into an array of exaggerated emotions ranging from anger, to tears, to shouting and storming out. If you’ve never asked this question, brace yourself. The title (BUT) WHAT ARE YOU DOING ABOUT WHITE SUPREMACY? acts both as a refusal (you come here expecting me to tell you what to do, but I only show you my art and make you see what you already know) and an acknowledgement that we are forced to share our lives with white supremacy. The question is all of ours… The question looms and it persists… the question is tiresome… the question is discomforting. The 6 Black artists in the show respond in loose or direct ways to the title question, for example, they may invert the question in order to ask: “What is white supremacy doing to you?”, or they may suggest that as Black artists, to make work of any subject matter, or of none at all, is to resist, to survive and to “do something”.

    Share with our readers the visual choices for the title (including the word ‘but’ in brackets and writing the title in capital letters)

    We knew that the audience for GI, and many art festivals, is mainly white and largely made up of arts professionals. As Black artists we wanted to speak to the consumption of the work of artists of colour, which is often at our own expense. The title is as much an address to our audience as it is a provocation for the artists – who cannot help but be faced with the question. Audiences are engaging with our work, which is variably about Black pain and Black death, but what are they doing to address their complicity in that, or to amplify the voices of those already fighting for liberation? What are the art-world audiences doing about sustainable living and working conditions for Black artists? And how are they engaged in material transformation within the institution?

    The capital letters signify the affect and the urgency embedded in the articulation of this question, the heaviness of the question and the way it feels somewhat impenetrable to exist or escape as a Black person in this world. Sometimes a shout reaches further than a whisper…. or sometimes a shout is the only way you will be heard. And the brackets are there as a preconceived comeback to a series of tired, self-preserving responses that do not answer the question.

    Why do you think it is important to combine making and writing for the interrogation of the title?

    The artists in this show Halima Haruna, Jacob V Joyce, Christopher Kirubi, Rabz Lansiquot, Mayfly Mutyambizi and Imani Robinson all have varying practices. sorryyoufeeluncomfortable is a multi-discplinary collective; a community who make things and who write poetry, songs and prose to activate their practice. (BUT) WHAT ARE YOU DOING ABOUT WHITE SUPREMACY? is a personal and a political question and we wanted to be able to respond however we liked, or however we could. Sometimes our responses can be vocalised, or put into words, and other times different modes of expression are better able to articulate an answer.

    Why do you think it is important for the exhibition to be surrounded by conversations, workshops and performances?

    A core part of sorryyoufeeluncomfortable’s work is public programming – creating intentional spaces for radical study and dialogue; it’s very much ingrained in what we do. We wanted the chance to engage with the range of topics and ideas that are present in the work, and to be in dialogue with our audiences who we believe offer as much to us as we can to them.

    It’s important to have multiple entry points to the work; to make the work and the ideas surrounding it as accessible as possible for those who it concerns directly, which is all of us in our distinct ways. We also exist within a wide community of artists, filmmakers and writers who have a lot to say; our programming provides a non-hierarchical space within which to engage with multiple perspectives and draw connections.

    Please share more about your thinking when putting the structure of the programme together?

    We wanted to give our GI audience a taster of each of the kinds of activations we programme. We facilitate workshops & seminars, radical study reading groups, and we also curate film screenings and exhibitions. When we are programming we always aim to create a space for popular education, that is, a democratic space for knowledge sharing in all directions, rather than a one-way street to educate our audiences. In that sense, the structure of the programming also invites audiences to engage in conversation and to participate in the work, rather than solely to consume it.

    Please share more about Black British Shorts and why you felt you wanted to have the screening be a part of the programme?

    Whilst we were ICA Young Associates in 2017, we curated a programme of shorts films by and concerning the lives and experiences of Black British people. It was a really wonderful event for us personally, as the submissions we received reflected what we already knew from experience, but also showed us new and varying perspectives. The films were of such a fantastic standard; we were really proud to be able to share them. The audience at GI is pretty international so we just wanted to share some of the films again and showcase our extended community of talented Black brits.

    Who do you imagine as your audience? And how do you think they will react to or process the exhibition and the programme you have put together?

    We definitely hope that our work appeals to Black & POC folk, particularly queer folk, who are also interested in art and radical politics. Those are the people that we make the work for and put events on for and that tends to be the majority of our audience for our work based in London because there’s a pretty strong Queer POC creative community there. We hope that the kind of work we do resonates with the POC community in Glasgow too.

    However, we are totally aware of the demographics of UK arts & culture audiences. They are overwhelmingly white and middle-class for a number of reasons and this means that a significant amount of events and exhibitions which deal directly with race politics have a markedly white audience-base. It’s always difficult to balance the desire to create work and share that work with audiences, and the oftentimes disheartening feeling you get when that audience doesn’t reflect your community. This also mixes with uncertainty around what exactly those audiences are taking away, is it simply that they attended this ‘cool’ thing about Black art, or do they actually leave with a changed perspective and a plan for active allyship? – Many people will come to the exhibition expecting it to give them answers to the title question. That’s not the purpose of this show, and that’s part of the gag.

    How will the exhibition be constructed and how have you planned to have the various artworks speak to each other?

    The process of constructing the exhibition had several parts to it. It began with commissioning the artists: we put together a concept that was broad enough for multiple interpretations but that had a single thread that would tie everything together. As curators we wanted to work with artists whose work and practice we knew well, as this gives us the kind of trust you need to build an artist led curatorial model where all involved are committed to the process of working collectively. Knowing our artists well, and being in conversation with them already, meant we could leave them to their devices and allow the show to come together organically. The magic really happened during the install. When we entered the space we didn’t know what it was going to look like when we finished, and that allowed us the freedom to make it look however we wanted. It was a collective process of trial and error, and of trusting the process and each other implicitly.

    As a collective what are some of the texts you use as a foundation for how you think about Blackness, the Black existence, white supremacy, representation and translation? Why do these texts appeal to you?

    Because of our origins as a collective James Baldwin is one of our central inspirations because of his employment of loving rage in all of his writings. – There are a lot of readers in our collective and we often read texts together as a collective and as part of public programming. We’ve held events around the work of Sylvia Wynter, Frank B Wilderson III, Fred Moten, Stuart Hall, Audre Lorde, Christina Sharpe, Katherine McKittrick, Black Quantum Futurism, Octavia Butler and CLR James. Our collective conversations around Blackness are always evolving, the more we read and speak to each other, depending on who we are collaborating with, and with each project we work on, wherever we are in the world.

    Is there anything else about the collective, the exhibition or the programme that you would like to mention?

    We don’t get paid enough to do the work we do and nor does any individual or arts collective of colour we know. It’s a real problem in the art world, never mind the rest of the ‘worlds’. Ultimately, we work because we have to and because we love what we do – but this shit is unsustainable.

    (BUT) WHAT ARE YOU DOING ABOUT WHITE SUPREMACY will be on from 19 April – 20 May.

  • Thulile Gamedze // a transdisciplinary approach to disrupting the coloniality within educational institutions

    Thulile Gamedze // a transdisciplinary approach to disrupting the coloniality within educational institutions

    Thulile Gamedze is an artist and writer based in Cape Town, working towards a Masters in Philosophy. Her research and creative endeavors look at ways to unpack and disrupt the coloniality embedded within institutionalized pedagogical practices, and develop relevant, experimental and Africa-centred teaching methodologies and content. Hers is a personal, artistic and textual intervention, and a research-based undertaking.

    As part of the all-womxn collective iQhiya, Gamedze’s practice draws on her own investigations and that of her collective. Her work offers strategies of intervention, departure points and moments of reflection entangled with contemplations on South Africa’s tensions and history. As someone who took art as a subject at school, and as a past Fine Arts student, Thulile has recognised gaps in the curricula, and actively attempts to add in and connect dots for a fuller picture of South African art history, and its relationship to other aspects of society.

    Installation view at AVA Gallery Cape Town, 2016

    Thulile is continuously active in animating and stimulating spaces that exist outside of traditional art spaces. Her participation in the two week online residency, Floating Reverie in 2017 is evidence of this. Taking on the visual and discursive markers present in online teaching videos, Thulile asked participants to unpack ideas related to transdisciplinary learning, knowledge production and the dissemination of such knowledge.

    Thulile is interested in the “radical potential of education as a central project of liberation, with her practice borrowing from strategies of collaboration in popular pedagogy, and subaltern African histories.” In this sense, she thinks about decolonisation as an art practice.

    Thulile’s online residency with Floating Reverie, titled WOW_3000ZF
  • GOOM // Pushing the boundaries of menswear

    GOOM // Pushing the boundaries of menswear

    After starting off at Central Saint Martins studying womenswear print, GOOM designer Goom Heo reevaluated her position and felt the need to click pause. Being completely open about the fast-paced fashion lifestyle and the pressure that can come from being pushed into spaces that one is not ready for, Goom turned down potential placements with brands such as Dior, Kenzo and Margiela for a two year sabbatical from the industry, and went back home to Korea. However, she never stopped taking in the life she saw on the streets, and armed with her camera, she documented the trash that she found around Korea and China. Goom remembers one distinct moment, seeing a man roll up his t-shirt to expose his large belly, and no one around him being concerned about this.  For her this represents her decision to go back to CSM as well as the premise behind her final collection; not being concerned about what other people think and taking ownership of one’s fashion choices.

    Upon her return she switched to menswear, something that she hoped would wake her up creatively, considering that she had been out of the game for two years. Inspired by trash and the man she saw with his belly exposed, Goom translated the colours and textures from her photographs into her layered t-shirt design. Her final collection at CSM was a combination of these t-shirts, excessively broad shoulders for 80s-inspired tailored jackets and multicoloured turtlenecks. The collection was captured by blurry images, making the viewer absorb the garments through a trippy, hallucinatory glow.

    Having grown up in Korea, and spending one year in a small town in the US, Goom expressed how living in London while studying has allowed her to unleash her creativity, referring both to her own sense of style as well as her practice as a designer.

    “I thought I kind of wanted to do menswear in second year but I was scared of it because I thought of menswear having to be perfect with amazing sewing, pattern cutting and tailoring. But I thought ‘ok I can do that, or I can change it to be like something else’,” she expressed in an interview with Hunger, “I wouldn’t say my collection is 100% perfect or traditional menswear but you can still see hints of it. But what’s proper anyway?”

    Her collection is all about attitude, with male models walking assertively down the runway with shorts stretched over the bottom of oversized tailored jackets and white fishnet stockings pulled over models’ knees. Her decision to jump back into the industry received incredible validation when her collection won her the L’Oréal Professionnel Young Talent Award.

    Goom is currently embarking on her MA, and the fashion world cannot wait to see how she will elevate and/or transform her already well-known name.

  • The use of fabric in art for preservation, reflection and identity

    The use of fabric in art for preservation, reflection and identity

    Throughout the history of art, artists have appreciated the versatility that fabric possesses. Viewed as clothing, skin and a source of identity, it can be manipulated and molded into an object (or subject) with conceptual depth. It allows for the creation of soft sculptures, or be used as aids in performance, but does not deny artists the ability to project a sense of hardness, scale or visual weight. Textiles can also be used as a presentation of and reflection on colonialism and global trade, as with the work of UK-Nigerian artist Yinka Shonibare with his investigations of political and social histories. Fabric also offers a way to think about personal histories, as with the case of Accra-based artist Serge Attukwei Clottey‘s work My Mother’s Wardrobe.

    ‘My Mother’s Wardrobe’ by Serge Attukwei Clottey

    Clottey’s work generally examines the power of everyday objects. However, the above mentioned work is potent in the way that it gives an avenue for thinking about the use and signification that fabric offers artists and viewers. Through this work he explored the connection that fabric can create between mothers and their children. In this work he used performance as a way to interrogate gender roles along with notions of family, ancestry and spirituality. This was a personal work inspired by the death of his mother, and the performance unpacked the concept of materiality with the intention of honouring women as the collectors and custodians of cloth that serve as signifiers of history and memory. Clottey presents a vulnerability in the way that he brings across his own experiences, while inviting viewers to think about their own personal connections to his subject matter.

    While is broader practice involves photography, installation, sculpture and performance, this work highlights the significance of fabric when thinking about personal and collective cultures, histories and intimacies.

    Artwork by Turiya Magadlela

    Johannesburg-based artists Turiya Magadlela uses fabric as her primary medium, cutting, stitching and stretching it over wooden frames. Her use of commonly found fabrics, such as pantyhose and uniforms brings the past life of the fabric into the exhibition space, where it’s very presence creates animated associations in the minds of viewers. Her use of familiar fabrics allows her work to oscillate between abstract art and a collection of memories interwoven with articulations of experiences of womanhood, motherhood and narratives from Black South African history.

    Looking at the work of Clottey and Magadlela the significance of fabric as a container of history and memories becomes clear. Its physical and conceptual malleability highlights its ability to be a tool for preservation, reflection and identity.

  • Artist Florine Demosthene on the Black Heroine

    Artist Florine Demosthene on the Black Heroine

    “Would you be willing to suspend all your preconceived notions of what a heroine is supposed to be?”

    This question was directed at Nigerian writer Ayodeji Rotinwa by artist Florine Demosthene. The Haitian-American artist is exhibiting her new show titled “The Stories I Tell Myself” at Gallery 1957 in Accra. This exhibition is comprised of work created during her four month residency with the gallery.

    Demosthene’s painted and collaged black heroine projects a strong yet calming presence, possessing contemplative poses with a divine gaze. She appears to be floating, while still enjoying a full form.

    Florine Demosthene, ‘Untitled Wound #1’, 2018

    Demosthene points to the fact the black heroine is nothing new. Heroines with mythological characteristics, goddesses, all-women armies and warriors have occupied real life and the imaginaries of cultures throughout past and present history. Demosthene’s work simply channels the spirit and energy of women past, present and future who have the ability to protect, bring life and divine the future. Her work speaks to the necessity of presenting narratives of black heroines as valuable, valid and true in and of themselves, detached from the visual and discursive constructions that relate them to men and whiteness.

    This gesture present in the execution of her concept is powerful in that it encourages viewers to question who they are when prejudices and outside projections absorbed by their skin and methods of identity construction are removed. Demosthene’s heroine suggests that perfection is not heroic, and that the necessity of removal and breaking down for a more self appreciating and celebratory being is a kind of power too.

    Florine Demosthene, ‘Untitled Wound #2’, 2018
  • Artist Sabella D’Souza on the privilege of passing

    Artist Sabella D’Souza on the privilege of passing

    “Indian-Australian? Never felt that, never heard of that, never tasted that, never smelt that.*”

    These are the opening words of Sabella D’Souza’s work titled 22/f/aus. As a performance artists based in Sydney she interweaves notions of cultural hybridity, virtual identity and the transnationality of cyberspace with identity signifiers such as race and gender. A central focus in her work is unpacking the importance of safe spaces on and offline for people of colour and queer people.

    “WikiHow*: to perform whiteness

    The privilege of passing is undeniable”

    22/f/aus plays in the discursive make up of the internet and the kind of interactions and social “passing” that it has engendered. The work is presented in a similar fashion to YouTube makeup tutorial and a wiki-how guide to survive the erasure of racial, and queer identity in virtual communities, specifically for women and non-binary people of colour. By utilizing the conventions of a YouTube or wiki-how tutorial the viewer is initially overcome with a sense of familiarity, having scrolled through a number of these online before. However, the subtitles that display across the bottom of the screen push you into a different frame of reference. The work is powerful in its ability to use the language of the internet video to paint a picture of what it means to occupy a space that is considered “white by default”. With her step-by-step instructions merged together with her own experiences on online interactive platforms, D’Souza exposes casual exoticization and how certain online spaces make one feel as if they need to “pass” as another identity to enjoy a safe online experience.

    Check out the video below.

  • ANY BODY ZINE // writings on dance, movement and embodied politics

    ANY BODY ZINE // writings on dance, movement and embodied politics

    “I think it’s high time we start to address that dance, movement and embodied politics all form part of re-imagining and re-defining where, how and why bodies can occupy space.”

    This quote is from an interview with co-founder of ANY BODY ZINE (ABZ), Nicola van Straaten. She, along with Kopano Maroga and Julia de Rosenwerth, started the online and print publication with the desire to bring more cultural and social attention to artistic work that is rooted in the body, “but also a desire to expand ideas around what kind of bodies are dancing bodies.” The intention is to emphasize that every body is a potential site for “creative self-actualization” and “open understandings of dance”.

    Having met during their time at the then UCT School of Dance, Nicola proposed the idea of the publication to Kopano and Julia. Since then they have released 10 issues, all dealing with varied aspects of dance, choreography, movement, and bodies through written contributions and interviews with people from different aspects of their industry. Every issue has a central theme that offers guidance to contributors, and a direction for the curation of each issue. Kopnano explains that the themes are based on their interests at different moments, making each issue a reflection a way of thinking at a particular moment in time. Volume 2, comprised of four issues so far, is focused on verbs that relate to dance and movement – Marching, Falling, Jumping and Hanging. Nicola explains that they chose verbs because they were interested in the intersection between language and movement, action and motion.

    Previous issues from Volume 1 have included conversations about semantics, emotions, body politics and taboo subjects, offering a wide variety of entry points for conversations. The issue titled “Space/Place” tackles the semantic and political differences invoked in the use of “space” versus “place”, and connects to the act of curation and place making. The issue, “Rhythm” looks at sound and music makers within their community, and includes features on the Phillipi Music Project, a computer engineered rhythm making program by Mohato Lekena and performer and musician Coila-Leah Enderstein who features a lot in their issues, and who Kopano describes as a “kind of ad hoc, fourth member of ABZ”. The issue, “Sex”, arose from an interest in interrogating perceptions of the naked body in performance, specifically how it is always read through sexual references even when the intention of a performance has nothing to do with this. Other issues have explored topics such as race, colour, subjectivity, objectivity, the personal and the political.

    “There are so few opportunities for people to share their creative work that isn’t easily consumable or sellable, which I think is why folks are always really keen to contribute,” Kopano explains while reflecting on how they ask people in their community to contribute to the publication. The publication is also a platform to bolster the profile of practitioners who are a large part of the growth and development of dance and movement and related practices in Southern Africa. They have conducted interviews with dancer and choreographer Rudi Smit, strange and intellectual performance artist Gavin Krastin and filmmaker Jenna Bass just to mention a few.

    Julia, Kopano and Nicola each contribute in different and important ways to the project. “Julia’s incredible choreographic eye for detail (and the fact that she basically taught herself web design) make her the boss of the website. Kopano’s amazing relational qualities and ability to hold spaces have resulted in him doing a lot of the liasioning with our contributors, stockists and general public, lately he’s also been directing the kind of ‘business’ development of the zine. And my passion for books and print mean I head up the layout and printing aspect of the work. We all edit together, make decisions together, essentially ‘lead’ the project together,” Nicola explains.

    Connected to the online and print publication is the third wing of ABZ, the performative platforms. ANY BODY ZINE has collaborated with NEW DANCE LAB, to create the ANY BODY DANCE LAB – a 6 week dance and performance residency for Cape Town-based artists. Teaming up with Theatre Arts Admin Collective and the Goethe-Institut Johannesburg, the residency comprises of a series of dance, composition, writing and performance workshops that culminate in a series of public performances by the 10 participants on the residency. The content from the writing workshops will be compiled to form a publication produced by ANY BODY ZINE. “We wanted to include a writing component to the ANY BODY DANCE LAB and thought that it would be very special if we curated a publication to contextualise and archive the project, but that also provides a platform for the residents to publish some of their work. As ANY BODY ZINE, we are also interested in the processes of content creation and saw this as a good opportunity to explore that question further,” Julia explains. What connects all three aspects of their work is the desire to make space for and to support independent artists.

    Julia also informed me that after a fantastic Thundafund Campaign [Thundafund is a crowdfunding platform in South Africa], they were able to print their 2016 and 2017 content which will be available at the Book Lounge in Cape Town on Roeland street and Bibliophilia in Woodstock. ANY BODY ZINE will also be available for purchase at the Association for Visual Arts (35 Church street, Cape Town) during their Comics Focus zine and comics festival taking place from the 21st of June to the 19th of July.

    Reflecting on their intentions for the publication, Nicola expressed that they hope it will allow people to think about their bodies differently and perhaps see dance as a more accessible medium. The publication presents itself as an archive of South African performance and movement practices, showcasing an image of the contemporary history of dance and beginning the documentation of SA’s dance lineage. The platform also offers validation for those already deeply involved in the industry and the possibility for opportunities for emerging artists.

    Check out their website to find out more about their upcoming projects.

    “In our current neoliberal context, dance really doesn’t get as much support as fine art or even film, because it isn’t necessarily a ‘sellable’ product. But that’s also why it’s such a powerful tool, because dance is an experience and has the potential to be internally transformative in that way.” – Nicola van Straaten

    2016’s Vol 1 content (Photo by Nicola van Straaten)
  • HER // a project portraying Coloured women in an honest and vulnerable way

    HER // a project portraying Coloured women in an honest and vulnerable way

    Coloured identity has a complicated national, provincial and personal history (or histories) in South Africa. Mikhailia Petersen and Gemma Shepherd teamed up with Jabu Newman, Jahaan van der Ross, Qiniso van Damme, Roxanne Louw, Lara Simons and Shannon van Wyk to unpack this by focusing specifically on the representation of Coloured women in the project ‘HER’.

    Mikhailia explained that the title choice for the series came instinctively. “We want it be a series that a magnitude of Coloured women can connect to,” she adds.

    The foundation for the project comes from their emphasis on the importance of Coloured women occupying positions where they are able to define and perpetuate their own narratives and tell authentic, honest stories about their lived experiences. “Coloured women need not only the validation of seeing ourselves reflected in the physical form, we also need our lived experience to be acknowledged and reflected in the stories that the Fashion Industry tells. Only then will we truly have a seat at the table.” By including women who are involved in the creative industry, both behind and in front of the camera, this project implicitly invites multiple players to reflect on their message.

    The team hope that the series will encourage further discussions about telling experience-oriented, first person stories, as well as widen an interrogation of the fashion industry and engender a spirit of togetherness.

    ‘Her’ aims to portray Coloured women in an honest and vulnerable way. This is in contrast to the played out, hardened stereotype that is often placed on Coloured women. The stereotype that villainizes our grit and calls it vulgarity, because it makes us easier to discount.

    The above is a quote from the text by Shannon van Wyk that accompanies the series of photographs. This text gives the viewer context, and avoids it being interpreted as a fashion editorial. It communicates the fact that there are many ways in which people understand their Coloured identity, and that the ownership and reflexive unpacking of this identification needs to be in the hands of those who embody it. It also rejects the caricatures and negative associations that Coloured people have been forced to carry, specifically Coloured women.

     

    The images present the duality of strength and vulnerability with the intention of broadening the narratives of Coloured woman.

    “We understand that this is just a beginning and that there are so many more stories and voices that Coloured Women identify with that deserve a platform. Stories that need to be made and heard because they validate Coloured identity and the multitude of trials that Coloured women have had to go through and continue to triumph over.”

    Credits:

    Concept: Mikhailia Petersen and Gemma Shepherd

    Producer & Stylist: Mikhailia Petersen

    Photographer: Gemma Shepherd

    Models: Jabu Newman, Jahaan van der Ross, Qiniso van Damme, Roxanne Louw and Lara Simons

    Copy: Shannon van Wyk

  • Artist Favour Jonathan rethinks the passport photograph with her series ‘A Statement of Pride’

    Artist Favour Jonathan rethinks the passport photograph with her series ‘A Statement of Pride’

    Central Saint Martins art student Favour Jonathan is documenting her hairstyles in the most unconventional way – with the use of passport photographs. Favour has been taking photographs of her new hairdos at a photo booth over the past few months, and has collated them in an ongoing series titled A Statement of Pride.

    “We’re living in a time when black people are starting to see the beauty in our own hair; you get to a certain age and you ask yourself: ‘why am I buying chemicals to damage my own hair?’ There are so many natural hairstyles out there and it’s important to teach our daughters and our sons that they are beautiful,” Favour states in an interview with Another. From this statement it is clear that this series highlights the importance of celebrating black hair, but it also goes beyond this by indirectly commenting on ideas about borders and use of the photograph as a form of identification.

    For Favour the use of a passport photograph to document her hairstyles is about celebrating her Nigerian heritage and being able to reflect back on her personal growth. While this is true, I see A Statement of Pride as bringing a new definition to the formality of the passport photograph. Her use of a type of formal identification, and presenting a more personalised, meaningful association with it, can arguably be seen as a way to speak back to the increased political conservatism and migratory policies that constantly seek to identify, monitor and create barriers around those who are not of European heritage. As a young African women now living in London, the passport photographs also speaks to themes related to home and remembrance; the idea of containing her Nigerian identity in a medium that can easily be kept with her at all times.

  • adidas Deerupt // Disruptive through the simplicity of the grid

    adidas Deerupt // Disruptive through the simplicity of the grid

    Born from the courage to disrupt the design DNA of adidas, the Deerupt leads the way as a new silhouette injected with bold colour. Reinventing the structural mesh from the soles of 80s running styles, the design process for the Deerupt pushed the philosophy of archival referencing to new heights. Taking a single idea from their heritage sneakers, Deerupt stretches the grid concept to cover the entire shoe. The result is a collapsible runner that conforms to the wearer with a fit and comfort like never before. The Deerupt is a way to think about what it means to extend the imaginary of possibility. Pushing the boundaries of design and bending the adidas signature, the Three Stripes.

    Buildings, patterns, honeycombs, farmlands. Taking inspiration from urban planning, architecture and natural phenomena, the Deerupt reminds us that before any of these existed there was a system, equal parts natural and man-made. The grid. This is what gives the abstract something recognizable with its ability to make the familiar radically different. Understanding that everything is built on a grid makes one aware that anything is possible.

    The editorial for the Deerupt embraces this fully with its intention to translate the infinite possibility within the grid.

    Formless white backgrounds. Pink, purple and green light combined with smoke and bubbles. Models display strong contact with the viewer, taking on mechanical poses with limbs hanging, outstretched or twisted out of familiar placement. The intermittent presence of fishnet socks mimics the grid as they cling to ankles and shins.

    Taking on the grid as a foundation, the images point to the distortions in the everyday and make the familiar radically different. The use of pockets of soft light with stronger hue spots create a mysterious, dreamy moment of déjà vu, again making the past filter through to the present and the new. A glimpse of a minimalist, goth-tinged future. A visual demonstration of disruptiveness through the simplicity of the grid, and undeniably adidas.

    Credits:

    Photography, Casting & Styling – Jamal Nxedlana

    Models: Kayla Armstrong

    Nkuley Masemola

    Lebo Otukile

    Producer: Marcia Elizabeth

    Photographic & Fashion Assistant: Lebogang Ramfate

    Hair & Make-Up Artist: Katelyn Gerke

  • FAKA // intersectional body politics and the collapsing of creative boundaries

    FAKA // intersectional body politics and the collapsing of creative boundaries

    FAKA, the duo made up of Desire Marea and Fela Gucci explores a combination of mediums including sound, performance, video and photography. These are the tools they use to unpack themes central to their own experiences, resulting in the construction of a low-fi, eclectic aesthetic that communicates the liberation and reimagination of queer bodies.

    Their collective name FAKA is descriptive of the impact of their work. Their presence is not a faint permeation or seeping into the consciousness of audiences. Instead, it is a direct insertion into ones frame of reference.

    Inviting audiences into their ritualistic, celebratory performances with seductive looks and welcoming hand gestures, their aim is to humanise all faces whose presence signify underrepresented realities. Their work moves beyond that of a performance duo, and shifts into the realm of a cultural movement. Their existence lives beyond gallery spaces and stages, penetrating coded environments with their online presence through sound, video and social media. FAKA have created their own hybridised language to express intersectional body politics. Their work engenders the creation of safe spaces for black, queer, gender non-conforming or trans people to reflect on their own experiences and grow in community.

    As a duo FAKA commemorates and contributes to “third world aesthetics”, making a demand for this to receive large scale validation in local and international creative cultures. European audiences, and more recently Australian audiences, have been drawn to their ancestral gqom sounds as well as the unapologetic lyrical and performative transmission of their own stories and that of Black Queer Culture in South Africa.

    Disrupting cis-heteronormative notions of existence, their work is an amalgamation of music and art, collapsing the idea that artists need to focus on and be recognized within one specific discipline.

    Their collective manifesto can be summarised by words from a Facebook post about their 2016 song ‘Isifundo Sokuqala’ – “Izitabane zaziwe ukuthi zibuya ebukhosini” (Let it be known, that queerness is a thing of the Gods), paired with the statement that the song is an “ode to all the powerful dolls who risk their lives every day by being visible in an unsafe world. This is a celebration of those who have fearlessly embraced themselves. Because when your identity is the cause of your suffering in the world, you begin to fear the very source of your greatness in the world.”