Intersecting lines flow into form. Revealing subtleties of the figure. Long limbs extend from folds. Striking asymmetry. Frills unfurl in contrasting shades of flesh. Swedish artist and designer, Mina Lundgren, is the founder of Notion of Form. She begins the design process by, “investigating how a theoretical approach of how diversity and multiculturalism can be expressed through form and clothes. I’m interested in creating expressions that embodies unity, yet still allows diversity within.” From there she tries to explore how to relate and abstract the physical body in relation to this theoretical approach. “I tend to look at the body as a puzzle. Each part has its own form, yet it creates unity.”
“The way I will use the material in relation to the body sets the whole direction forward.” Mina approaches the notion of form through modes of sculpture. For her latest collection she sculpted with clay, “drawing from shapes of the body, to find a sculptural expression …that I wanted to translate into garments.” Her designs are also centred around the intersection of visuality and politics – the embedded ideology of aesthetics. “What fascinates me about abstract expressions is that they are both timeless but also, referenceless…They speak to our subconscious memory of form and sense.” She enjoys the universality of this kind of expression as it is more inclusive than other modes of fashion.“Fashion is often built around references that are reworked, tweaked or refined. I want to step away from this way of working.” Instead she wants to, “create a visual language that anyone, regardless of where they are from,can comprehend and relate to on an emotional level.”
When it comes to multiculturalism, Mina fervently believes in celebrating differences while also striving to find common ground. This is rooted in a humanist philosophy as she aims to practice and respect human rights. “I feel that Sweden is still learning how to understand diversity and to create a balanced multicultural nation. However, I feel that the country has a lot to be proud of in terms of equality between and men and women, discrimination laws, free education, and the social security system.” This sentiment of equality and a nuanced approach to cultural difference is at the core of Notion of Form.
This year Mina plans to work closely with collaborators as a means to engage with the brand in, “new and meaningful contexts.” In this latest collection Mina has focused on making her garments more wearable. “I have been enjoying developing new methods for patterns cutting focusing on the shapes and curves of the body in a more experimental way. I have understood more how I want to work with the body,both form a garment-oriented perspective but also and in a more artistic way.” She will also start production and sell selected garments online this year.
Mina hopes that expanding fashion markets in Africa and Asia will shift the way that the industry operates to meet consumer demands. “More diversity, more people of colour in top design positions. More leading design schools outside the west. More models of colour, stop tokenism on the runway!” She believes that this transition will be made possible by growing awareness, education and advocacy.